It was the best of times, It was the worst of times....

The Best of Times

As of today, April 14th, we have lived in Mexico for two years.  At times it feels like we just got here and, at other times, it feels like a decade has passed since we left Wellesley and hit the road.  When we left we were looking for a better climate, a slower pace, a more cost-effective place to live and an adventure. Everything panned out as planned...except for the slower pace.  We're really glad that we've been able to share our experiences with so many of you through the blog and we genuinely enjoy doing it.  So, let's get on with it.

Since last we blogged events have continued to rapidly unfold in a mind boggling mix of delight and sorrow.  Let's do the happy stuff first.

La Fiesta de Lodo (Mud Fest)

Last year at this time, we attended a parade and wanted to go from there to Mud Fest held on the same day.  We were thwarted when we discovered that every male between the ages of 15 and 45 also wanted to attend and had, in fact, arrived before us.  We vowed that we would rise at the break of dawn this year to gain entry.  And we did.  And it was worth it.  First, let us remind you that we are now at the apex of  "the dry season".  This can also be termed the "everything you see, own, or are, is covered in dust".  Simultaneously, the Lake has receded due to lack of rain so there is about a 200 yard expanse of mud out from the shoreline.

And here, where dust meets mud is where the spectacle takes place.  Mud Fest features off the road vehicles running what is kind of a motor cross setup except that half of it is in the mud and lacks a formal track.  There are ATVs, motorcycles, jeeps and SUVs with snorkels and such.  There are vendors hawking "off the road wares" and many, many tents offering food and all forms of beverages alcoholic.  Ah, what a combination -- mud, dust, overpowered vehicles and lots of booze.  You can see where this is going.  In the U.S. there would be races and prizes and rules and enforcement of rules and all that stuff.  Not so in Mexico.  The only raison d'etre for this event is so that a lot of people can bring their grown up toys, wear some spiffy leather outfits, drink many Michelada's (had my first -- a combination of Clamato-ish juice and beer.  Not as bad as it sounds) and alternately drive their vehicles over jumps and get them mired hubcap deep in mud.  Well, the photos will show all.  Rules are non-existent.  Ten year olds captained ATVs transporting 8 year olds at high speed.  No helmets were in evidence despite the prominent "Helmets Required" signs.  While there was a race course of sorts, there was no starting line, finish line, timing of anything or winners.  Losers were the ones who couldn't get their vehicles out of the mud. Federales, totting guns the size of small cannons, roamed the grounds maintaining order, oogling young women and enjoying a Michelada or two.  All in all, an afternoon to remember.

The shores of Lake Chapala puts the "mud"  in Mud Fest.

How much mud can you get on your vehicle?

The truly prepared have snorkels for air intake and raised exhaust to keep from stalling out in deeper water.

Meanwhile some unfortunates ventured in too deep & stirred up a lot of mud in a vain attempt to free themselves.

This person with a new H3 must have listened to the advertising hype, but got stuck as well.

Meanwhile the Toyota truck continued to dig itself deeper into the mud...

while the H3 was towed out by another four wheeler.

Hipster Guad style.

The land course had a jump, enjoyed by many...(note lack of helmets)

with the motorcycles getting air on the jump....

Even the small guys. Probably 8 years old.

This photo says it all...notice the mud coated fellow on the left, the police strolling away in the background and the bevy of beauties on the stage in the right background.

Nothing like father & son bonding in the mud.

Some of the vehicles had add-ons, like this "Chuckie" doll.

No Mud Fest would be complete without the young women, who love to pose for the camera.

It was never clear what all of the women on the stage were there for, other than for oogling.

Taking your novia on your ATV through the mud seemed to be the order of the day.

Despite the lack of supervision, no accidents were witnessed as the vehicles sped by one another in the mud...

and the young boy waves to the crowd.

Another vehicle needing a tow to get out of the mud.

The spectators and participants varied from the young...

to those with gray hair.

And yet another victim who thought because he had four wheel drive he would not get stuck.

Others just ignored the stuck vehicle as they sped by in their ATV.

Even the young enjoyed riding through the water & mud in their ATV...(note lack of helmets.... such a MOM)

while yet another truck gets stuck...

and yet another truck. The lesson of the day is get an ATV if you don't want to get stuck.

This vehicle wins the prize for most colorful at Mud Fest. .. But there were no prizes.

Donde Esta The Easter Bunny?

I  have ranted about the Americanization of Halloween, the installation of Coca Claus in the Mexican hierarchy of commercialized holidays and even lamented St. Patrick's Day (what COULD that be about here?). Did I mention that the local casino's mascot is a Leprechaun?  Anyway... Semana Santa (Holy Week) is an amazing display of the deep faith and the practice of the faith in Mexico.  Last year we followed the entire Passion Play (Ajijic # 3 in Mexico -- go team!) and just last night we went to the Plaza for the Fair which helps to support the cost of the production of the Passion Play.  It was an incredible night with the Plaza packed, eggs filled with confetti being smashed, food being eaten, drinks being drunk, a variety of things made of palm fronds being sold, and banners and pennants crackling in the wind.  So, for a week all of Mexico relives the final days and the death of Christ with increasing solemnity until the resurrection.  At this point, things tip in the other direction and the entire country goes into party mode for seven (or more) days.  There is a yin and yang feel to the whole thing.  So that's the real holiday.  And then there is the Easter Bunny.

Somehow, I just can't work up any antipathy towards the Bunny.  I know they've sold him down the river, but he is just so adorable.  And, in keeping with the almost weekly surprises the school next door presents us with, we awoke last Friday (last day of class for the two week Easter break) to see the soccer field dotted with cut out cardboard Easter Eggs and Bunnies stuck into the ground.  Like a million of them. Well, we knew it would be good, so we stuck around with Michael's camera at the ready.  We will let you determine if it is not cute beyond belief.  Why? #1 -  They are little and they all dress up.  Check out the kid who looks like a huggable rainbow flag gorilla.  Think he dreamt that up himself ? Excellent .  #2 - How hard is it to find eggs when the only place they can be is: A) behind a cardboard egg or B) behind a cardboard bunny.  And yet, they yelped with surprised delight each time they found one.  Getting in to the mood, we repurposed our gold Century Plant Christmas Tree to be an Easter Tree.  When our sons were growing up, the eggs and ornaments would go on pussy willows and forsythia with the hope that the forcing of blooms and an injection of color would allow us to soldier on until Spring took hold.  I SWEAR the tree will go away now.  No decorating for Fourth of July, Labor Day, Mexican Independence or Arbor Day.  I don't want to turn into one of those women who dress concrete geese on their lawns.  Honest.

Putting out the Easter eggs for the children to find later on.

It was a feeding frenzy of little costumed children searching for the Easter eggs...

while the adults supervised and took pictures.

There were fairies, ballerinas, bunnies...

all running around looking for eggs.

There was even a bee.

This costumed character and the fairy compete for eggs...

and it looks like someone is walking away with the lion's share.

Note the multi-colored character Deirdre termed a gorilla in the center of the photo.

The adults seemed to enjoy the hunt as much as the children.

The "Easter" tree.

And Now for Sorrow

Our blog can make it sound like Cocoon down here.  You know, the movie where they blast off to a planet where no one ages and all is wonderful.  Well, the wonderful part is true, but mortality still plagues us even here.  Last week we lost one of our best friends.  We knew Chris from almost the time we arrived and, over the two years since, he and his partner Jim became two of our closest pals. You've seen their names and photos many times in the blog.  He was young (52), he was vibrant and he was living life to its fullest.  Not fair.  We've discussed every facet of life down here from housing prices, to health care to .... everything.  What to say about dying here?  Well, it's never good-- but at least here it isn't very complicated.  In Mexico, everyone has to be buried or cremated in 48 hours.  Very few autopsies. Very little cost.  Michael and Manu (two unrelated people, one Mexican, one Gringo) managed to obtain the death certificate in under an hour (some money DID exchange hands). The funeral guys delivered the ashes to a Pemex station so Michael, Jim and Manu wouldn't have to battle Guad traffic. Jim found an English speaking priest who officiated at the Mass and didn't blink at the same sex marriage they had enjoyed, regrettably, for only 18 days. Room was found for Chris' ashes in the church's columbarium and the family name Campana-Flynn inscribed on the vault.  Not a very conservative country after all.

In memory of Christopher Campana.

One of the things we love here is that everybody (or ALMOST everybody) keeps living their life without slowing down.  At least to the level they can.  Yesterday, we celebrated the birthday of another good friend -- his 75th.  He and his wife are off to the States to visit family in a week and then on to Paris, a cruise down the Danube to Prague and who know what else.  Another 85 year old friend, Ramona, recently returned from hiking in the highlands of Guatemala.  You never know how long you've got, but I guess you just make the most of it.

Celebrating Allan & Barbara's birthdays.

So Now What? 

Well, we'll try to get one more blog out as Semana Santa rolls into the week of endless parties and car wrecks.  Then we'll be packing our bags to hit the road once more.  Currently, I cure my insomnia by trying to catalog what clothes I will take in the one bag allowed given that the clothes need to span a 50 degree temperature range and last 18 days.  It's like one of those "If Johnny's mom fried two eggs and the train was going 30MPH..." math problems. Usually after about 5 minutes of "no, the pink sweater is too bulky", "raincoat..need one", "don't forget the electrical adaptor",  I bore myself to such a degree that I tumble back into sleep.

Una Cosa Mas

I know my boosterism is annoying (see Ajijic #3 -- go team!) but validation is at hand.  Today CBS News announced (having ripped it off from internationalliving.com) that Lake Chapala is the #1 Retirement Destination for the budget minded.  I would actually love to see the list for THE  FILTHY RICH  -- probably next month.  Anyway, it's nice to be #1 even if it's only for the shrinking middle class.  Until later.....