We've Got Our Village Back

The Exodus

This year we experienced the full onslaught.  They came, they saw and they conquered-- our restaurant tables, massage tables and every parking space.  This year, both Canadians and Guadalajarans clearly decided that Lake Chapala was THE place to be.  Now this was only our second winter in Ajijic, so we just assumed everything would be like our first, idyllic winter here.  A more bustling ambiance, yet a manageable influx of tourists.  I believe that we now feel the way Cape Codders feel the week after Labor Day.  Yes, you need them (how else could you support a zillion restaurants?) but oh, it is SO nice when they leave.   See, last year, there were certain forces in play that kept the numbers down. For instance, last year, there was no Polar Vortex that wrapped all of Canada in a giant game of freeze tag. And, last year, the economy really hadn't authoritatively rebounded.  And, most importantly, last year people were still getting over the "Troubles"  of April  '12 during which about 16 youths were abducted, killed and deposited on the other side of our mountain by the cartels.  Even the Guad folks were freaked out by that.

And they stayed longer.  The Canadians were still here when the Guadalajarans descended for the two week party known as Semanas Santa y Pascua.  Why?  Because it was still winter in Canada in April. REAL winter.  They're no fools.  Even the pelicans won't leave (also from Canada).  They always come in December and leave in March because they need to go home, like responsible pelicans, and breed and raise their young.  Nope.  They are having none of that.  It is the end of April and they are still cruising the lake, having a few more fish tacos and knocking back a few more Margaritas.  Progeny be damned!

This confluence of events resulted in the village looking like some small urban nightmare over the two week holidays.  There were traffic jams (TRAFFIC JAMS!).    We'd finally find a table at a restaurant and we could see the waiters beam with delight when they realized we were Americans.  Truth or fiction, quien sabe, but both Canadians and Guadalajarans are reviled  by service people as horrible tippers.  Like the brave ex-pats we are, we soldiered on -- tipping copiously, only going to stores before 10 AM and pulling what few strings we possessed to cage a table at a restaurant.  But now, they are gone (well except the pelicans) and life is good.

The Passion Plays (Continued)

O.K.  So we told you about the first installment.  Now, for the real action.  Day 4 -- or maybe 3, or 5 -- it's hard to keep track--finds us in the front of St. Andres church to witness more Passion Play goings on.  Now, for those of you who haven't kept up, like me, just go to Wikipedia for the Passion Play recap.  It's 11 A.M. and everything is beginning to go.  There are entirely new sets (the equivalent of off Broadway if not Broadway) that have been constructed by local people over weeks of working until midnight.  We encounter Phil and Sandy who have moved to a street in the Village where only REAL people (read Mexicans) live.  They have been incorporated into the activity of building the sets for nights on end. Then we find out that they are the ONLY gringos in like a bizillion years who have actually taken part in doing the sets. Perhaps we're not as integrated as we like to suppose.....

And it is amazing.  No, I'm not going to tell you exactly what happens in a blow by blow recounting. The photos will speak for me.  I would however call your attention to the little boy who has been covered in gilt (we really hope toxicity was considered).  This five year old sat totally motionless holding two clusters of gilt grapes for about twenty minutes in 85 degree heat.  No A.D.D in this village!  While I was transfixed the first time around last year, the heat, the crowds and the difficulty viewing the action wore me down.  While Michael snapped photos balanced precariously on a chair, I took out my Kindle and waded deep into The Goldfinch (great read, recommended).  Eventually, the climatic moment occurred and Jesus hoisted a gigantic cross on to his shoulder and headed out for his trek up the mountain (literally) with more unpleasantness to come.  It is a big honor to enact the role of Jesus and I can't even imagine how they train for it. At this point, the entire Village descends into silence (and I can't tell you how rare THAT is) until the resurrection the following night.

The Apostles walk through the plaza on Holy Thursday to get ready to march up to Gesthamene.

Followed by Jesus and his girlfriend (novia)?, or is it his wife (espsosa)? Quien sabe. This is how rumors get started .

On Good Friday everyone gathers in the courtyard of the church to witness the Passion Play, with some getting better seats thanks to Dad.

As everyone waits for the play to begin, those in the know gather in the shady areas of the courtyard.

This year all of the living statures were painted gold. These statues had to maintain their poses in the hot sun for twenty minutes at a stretch.

This year the living statues included both males and females as shown by these statues of Perseus & Diana.

Even the very young were enlisted as statues, as shown by this young child holding the golden grapes.

The number of living statues was most impressive. How they found this many people to stand perfectly still in the hot sun for twenty minutes is beyond me.

Note the water flowing from this statues jar. The production quality and the scenery backdrops for a small village such as Ajijic are outstanding.

You will get a crowd's eye view as the play progresses.

They find an amazing local character to play Barabbas, who is pardoned and set free at the demand of the rabble.

Jesus is turned over to the soldiers to be scourged.

The roman soldier mocks Jesus after he is scourged and a crown of thorns is placed on his head as a crown.

Jesus is brought before the rabble and they still demand his crucifixion.

                                  Barabbas joins the rabble, obviously enjoying his escape from execution.                                                

The people who are playing the rabble look as if they could have been at the first Good Friday.

The detail of the costuming ...

and the water jugs with cups (no plastic bottles in this Passion Play),

shows the lengths taken to create authenticity. The water is necessary for hydration, given the heat.

During one break for scene changes I got one of the high priests, a member of the crowd & Barabbas to pose for their photo.

Even the costuming of the Roman soldiers shows the detailed lengths taken to recreate the authenticity of the scenes.

Two men are required to carry the cross into the courtyard.

Jesus then comes out in his bloody garments...

and the cross is placed upon his shoulder.

Jesus then begins to carry the cross. He will carry this cross up the mountainside, approximately a mile, to where the crucifixion will be reenacted.

One of the thieves to be crucified with Jesus carries the cross member on his back up the mountain as well,

followed by the second thief.

Finally the Roman soldiers accompany all of the condemned men on the Via Dolorosa.

Even the path out of the courtyard of the church is lined with columns.

So, now it is the following night.  We have read that the Mass will begin at 7 P.M. so we show up.  No one is there.  But there is a sign hung on the gate.  It says Mass 8 P.M.  That is crossed out.  Someone has written 7 P.M.  But that is crossed out.  Someone has written a ?  We shrug and go get coffee. Eventually we, and the rest of the Village, assemble.  Chairs fill the entire courtyard in front of the Church. It is dark.  No lights anywhere.   We notice people on the roof of the church.  As the Mass is about to commence, a fireball comes flying from the roof, across the steps in front of the church and into this large bowl.  From this point, the Mass begins and goes on for a REALLY long time.  Christ's tomb has been built along the facade of the church.  At the appointed time, there is an explosion and the front of the tomb flies off.  Next thing you know, Christ is 20 feet above the tomb, balanced on a ledge where he remains motionless for the remainder of the Mass.  Everyone is waving handkerchiefs, bells are chiming, lights come on.  It is really something.  Folks who'd been there last year (we missed it) compared the year to year performance and felt that last year's was superior but, hey, I thought it was amazing.

A fuse is run form the top of the church...

to a stand holding flammable material to be lit at the appropriate time. Note the tomb in the background.

The fire is lit, and from this fire...

the Paschal candle is lit. Note the Roman soldiers guarding the tomb in the background.

The Paschal candle is carried through the congregation,

and from this candle gradually all of the Paschal candles of the congregation are lit.

The angel rolls back the stone from the tomb...

and the risen Jesus appears above the tomb.

This is a cause for celebration with fireworks....

and a few more fireworks.

Beyond the Mass, it was very entertaining watching everyone in the crowd.  I don't know how they do it, but somehow these parent get their kids to hang in there without carrying on for 3 and1/2 hours.  Our friend Manu's nieces (like 3 and 1 and fresh off bad colds) were there and were great.  Kids toddled around, played "Let's jump off the really high statue and scare the Gringos", cuddled in laps etc.  My favorite was the little girl just learning to walk.  She fell, went to get up, and pushing herself up on her arms to stand, failed to understand that you can't stand up if your feet are on the hem of your very fancy dress.  I really hope Michael got a shot of that.  You could just sense her confusion as to why this wasn't working.  We had a passel of friends with us and more stopped by to say hi.  It was a great evening.

The congregation waves white handkerchiefs to the risen Christ. 

The two women standing in the foreground at the left brought their own little chairs to sit on.

Even though the service went for three and a half hours, all of the children were very well behaved.

But.... it wasn't over yet.  Because, after all, it was only 11PM or so.  So off to the Plaza where they set giant Judas effigies to blow up.  They are made of paper mache (the most common material here along with duct tape and caulking) and then are strung with firecrackers.  The string of firecrackers fly around and eventually connect with the mother load of explosives creating a deafening roar and throwing embers for a considerable distance.  Somewhere in this traditional Judas effigy thing, the Village decided it would be good to pin the names of unpopular politicians (like all of them?) on the effigies as well.  The entire Plaza was filled with people selling food and drink, buying and eating food and drink, effigy burners, the local head honcho emceeing the show and many dogs trying to sneak food.  Like most holidays here, the big deal is the night before the actual holiday.  Easter morn dawned tranquil and sedate.  Lovely.

Getting ready to string up the effigy.

The fireworks twirl around the wheels attached to the effigy,

creating an amazing light show,

while filling the night with smoke and loud noises.

The various patterns created by the exploding fireworks were fascinating...

with each slightly different,

as can be seen in this photo,

and this photo,

and this photo.

Finally the whole effigy explodes in a big fireball at the very end.

Posing with the next effigy to be strung up and set ablaze with fireworks.

Speaking of Tranquil....

After Michael's unfortunate knee issue he was unable to kayak for months.  However, he is back in the saddle once more...or cockpit... or something.  The Lake has recently sprouted "islands" of vegetation where none were before.  And they are ideal feeding and nesting spots for the birds (maybe the pelicans have tipped to this... we'll see).  So when they kayak, they are now seeing a lot of really unusual birds. On Monday nights they have a Moonlight paddle and the sunsets are usually wonderful.  So, here you go.  A little medley of bird, lake and sunset photos.  Now that winter is over for you NOBers, we feel free to display the grandeur of our climate once more.

A Black-crowned Night-Heron perches on a stake,

and then flies away as I get too close.

A pair of Black-necked Stilts by the islands created by vegetation growing in the lake.

A close up of one of the Black-necked Stilts. They must have been a nesting pair based on how close I could get.

The advantage of kayaking is being able to capture photos like this of the fishermen of Lake Chapala pulling up their nets.

The view of sunsets and the clouds from our terrace entertain us nightly.

And the amazing patterns of light on our sunset kayak paddles are also amazing.

Even the moon rises from our terrace can be spectacular.

We're Headed for the Land Down Under

This will probably be the last blog for a month of so.  Next Monday we head to L.A. for a couple of days and then on to New Zealand and Australia.  Pals George and Alex and Nancy and Federico will be tending the geriatric Siam and house so we will be worry free. We'll spend a couple more days on the way home with Justin in L.A.  Should be a great trip if a bit of a long haul.  I read that there are more venomous and lethal animals in Australia than any other continent. You can only imagine how excited I was to learn this (phobia#5- Venom).  You can also only imagine how excited I was to learn that a hamburger in Sydney seems to cost $20 USD.  Once you've lived in Mexico, everywhere but Bangladesh seems expensive.  Time to get in touch with the real world again.  So, hope you enjoy Spring and have a great time.  We'll be back in touch upon return.  Take care.