It's Beginning to Feel A Lot Like Navidad

Well, not climatically.  Still 70s, clear and sunny.  Sorry Boston.  But you've got the snow and, to be honest, the one time we miss it is Christmas.  Not a huge amount of missing, but some.  Missing our Boston friends and family more than the snow.  We'll try to get one post off before the boys arrive and we head to Mexico city.  An eclectic selection of topics this time.

Let There Be Art

There are a LOT of artists in Ajijic.  Kids, Grownups, Geriatrics -- they're all carving or painting or throwing pots or weaving or something.  We appear to be the only two people in town with absolutely no artistic talents.  And there are art shows --lots.  First we went to a pottery show. Then, also  this weekend, they closed the street in front of the church and had a big art show which also featured dancers and classical guitarists and two dogs fighting over a frisbee. What's nice is that there seem to be about an even mixture of gringo and Mexican artists.  But what's interesting is that almost all the gringo artists do Mexican scenes while most of the Mexican (not all)  artists do more abstract art.  Not universal,  but interesting and telling about how much the gringos appreciate not only the landscape but the Mexican way of life.  At the same time, but as a separate event, on the Plaza a block away, was an exhibit, sale and auction of artisan's work from Michoachan.  So.... here are some photos of the art festival and artesian exhibit.

The street is closed for the International Art Fest

Artists set up al along the street to sell their art work.

Art takes many forms, including pottery.

Several large photos were also displayed on the plaza during the Art Fest.

The House Tour de Noel

O.K.  This is the big one.  The one where you get to see great houses AND drink wine and eat hors d'oeuvres.  What a combo.  House #1 was in Los Ranchos.  Those faithful readers with photographic memories will remember that we saw a house in Los Ranchos on one of our first tours.  This is the house of the parents of the people on the first house tour.  You approach on a dirt road where, at least the first time, a goatherd was picturesquely gathering his flock to keep them from being run over by the crazed, invading tour goers.  There are only five houses on this road and they are massive.  What I have noticed, that I consider odd, is that many of these houses are 6,000 -10,000 square feet but only have two or three bedrooms.  Man, if I had a house that big I'd have lots of friends fly in all the time.  I'd have ten bedrooms and scrap that backgammon room and the yoga room and the collage assembling room.  But...that's me.

Even the dogs are decorated for the season...

as well as the tree at the entrance to the house.

The table is set for the holiday feast with the Christmas tree in the background.

The infinity pool however was not decorated for the season.

These people had a "rocking" duck for the grandchildren.

The master bedroom...

and more of the master bedroom.

House # 2:  One thing I really like about the House Tour is that you don't just see these humungous houses.  They usually have one house per tour that is on a more "human" scale.  This house was set up on the hill with a great view of the Lake and was totally unassuming but well designed.  Now, you have to realize that the back yard was a second lot that the man bought-- meaning that it would be a VERY tight fit without that.  And it's a gated community-- however you feel about that.  But it had these very cool doors that are all window and completely retract into the walls opening up your living room onto the terrace seamlessly.  Nice.

The tall boveda ceilings allow for a taller tree.

This table is set for a romantic dinner for two.  Oops.  One.

The weather allows for an open flow form the inside living area to the outside livings area with magnificent views.

A compact, efficient and functional kitchen.

House #3:  Ah, my favorite again.  Something about that number 3.  This one was 200 years old and a former monastery.  It has it's own chapel.  Not something everybody needs-- but very attractive.  To describe it, because the photos may not reveal the layout, it is two buildings joined by the chapel.  The main portion is the communal living area and master bedroom (head honcho's boudoir in the monastery days I suspect).  The kitchen is small and rustic Mexican.  I mention this only because the owner, Leslie, is a major cook and I often buy her things at the Monday Market.  You know a really good cook when they can cook in a rustic Mexican kitchen.  The entire house (s) are set into the mountain so beneath the main living area area several "suites" which were former monk's cells that have been combined to create accommodations since Leslie runs the place as a B&B (you can google airbnb House on the Hill Ajijic Mx.). Above, joined to the Chapel, and ascending the steep hill is another building which houses more converted monk cells and a Rotunda area that is being turned into a really nice suite.  After it was a monastery the complex was owned by the president of the Gold Mine on the mountain (but that is another story).

The chapel with the Virgin of Guadalupe behind the altar.  And, strangely, pinatas.

One of the most novel Christmas trees on the tour.

Notice the old style Mexican tiles on the floor in the inside dining room...

which flow through to the outside dining room.

The stove & oven in the "Mexican" kitchen.

More of the "Mexican" kitchen with the tiles around the sink and on the counters.

Even the statue at the entrance to the chapel is decorated with Christmas colors.

House #4:  This is where they hid the goodies!  Yes, this was the party house.  The decorations were quite impressive.  Apparently, they brought someone down from Guadalajara to do them.  The house was big -- tall and open and the decorations looked to scale.  I throw a little garland here and there and ...well, fine.  These things were massive.  The house was in Tres Canadas begging the question if they only allow Canadians to live there, but I guess not.  Anyway the pictures will tell the tale.  The food was mucho and delicious.  So much so that we shelved dinner entirely.

You know you are at the party house when Santa greets you at the door.

An elaborately created Christmas scene.

This house featured a collection of colorful, decorative plates hung on the wall.

Looking down from the upstairs balcony on some of the holiday decorations.

The master bedroom...

complete with big screen TV above the fireplace.

Let The Posadas Begin!

Last year we missed The Posadas entirely because we missed the first night (nine nights -- like everything here).  The first one starts from the church but each successive night starts from where Joseph and Mary spent the last night.  Well, if you don't know where they ended up the first night -- you get the picture.  Last year we wandered the Village fruitlessly looking for a small donkey and a throng of kids and missed them entirely.  We were not to be thwarted this year.  The paper said it would start at 4:30.  We are getting better at this time thing so immediately added an hour  and showed up promptly at 5:30 and surprise! so did the Posada.  Excruciatingly cute children, VERY patient donkey and happy, smiling (mostly) parents.  In the entire hour we were with them not one child cried, nobody ran around like a maniac and no parental voices were raised.  I don't know how they do it.  So, they start off from the church and sing a song about the search for shelter (well, I think-- you know my Spanish -- it could have been about gourds-- I'm not sure).  They get to a house and there is more back and forth singing and the windows and doors open.  The hosting family then distributes  bolos (goodie bags) to the throngs of children and Joseph and Mary are allowed in to sleep in the "stable".  I noted that the Donkey was not invited in.  It is rumored that there is a lot of piñata smashing but we didn't witness that.  Don't know if we'll catch any of the other nights.  It is the one "parade" we have witnessed that didn't feature the explosion of cohotes.  So nice.

Musicians sing while the children gather for the posada.

Joseph leads Mary on the burro and the children & parents follow behind.

These three sisters patiently wait for the posada to begin. One is dressed in the colors of the Mexican flag.

The burro also patiently waits, catching a little shut eye until the posada begins.

Children follow Joseph & Mary carrying the original posada scene.

The posada proceeds to the house selected for the first night of the posada.

The posada arrives at the house and Mary dismounts, showing the very practical jeans she is wearing underneath.

Everyone sings outside the house ...

prayers are said...

while the children patiently wait...

and wait to go into the house to get their bag full of treats.

This little one is trying out the burro...perhaps an aspiring future Mary.

You have to make the Adjustment

Some of you may remember our quasi-disasterous Christmas Tree from last year.  A photo will refresh your memories.  Well, this year we are going a different route.  At the Last Hurrah croquet party our friend Graham approached me and said, "I have a request if you don't mind".  He led me around the corner of the house and pointed to this giant, somewhat phallic, growth that had sprouted from the middle of our Century Plant cactus. "Can I have it?" he asked.  "Good God, Graham, why would you want THAT?" " Well, we'll chop it off, dry it out and paint it for a Christmas tree.  Oh, look, there is another.  We'll make one for you too."  "Hmmmm. Sounds interesting.  Go for it."  It is being delivered tonight.  They call the plant the Century Plant because it only blooms (yes, that is a bloom) every once in a while -- like a long time. But probably not a century.  And then the plant dies. Ah, the circle of life.  So, a Mexican Christmas Tree will enter our lives.  We'll let you vote on which, if either, if preferable.

Last year's pathetic Christmas tree.

A view of this year's Mexican Christmas tree.

Another view of this year's Christmas tree.

One Last Christmas Note

I just took a break to go outside on the terrace and listen to the school next door practicing for their big Christmas performance.  The kids are all sitting on the field-- from tiny, tiny ones to high schoolers (it's a private school).  First up are 7 or 8 year olds singing Angels We Have Heard on High ( I guess it's really Gloria)  in English.  It is beautiful.  At 7 apparently you can still hit those notes.  Then there are 10 year olds singing some Mexican song and parading around with a Moon, Sun and a Donkey (it's always a donkey here).  But my favorite is the littlest kids (maybe four) singing The Happiest Christmas Tree in English (kind of) each cavorting around the field with a poster board Christmas Tree.  All this made me think back across the far too many decades to our elementary school Christmas Programs.  I am not (God knows) one of those "They're stealing our Christmas" far right types but looking at how happy these kids were and how from littlest to largest they were sharing in a common celebration it made me think that perhaps all our political correctness is a bit overdone.  But enough of that.

The Searles Family wishes all of you the brightest and best Christmas (or Holiday of your choice) and a very happy, healthy and fun 2014.  We will try to stay out of trouble in Mexico City and shall report back on our adventures.  Take care and all the best to all of you.

Christmas decorations in Chapala.

Even City Hall in Chapala is decked out for the season.

Wasting Away Again in Margaritaville

I mean, honestly.  Jimmy Buffet was in the fake Margaritaville.  You know the sporty, cruise-y, dock shoe-y Margaritaville world.  The BVI, St. John's one.  Not the one where there are tequila tastings at Walmart.  Now, THAT is Margaritaville.  I don't know what got me going on this diatribe.  I mean I like Jimmy Buffet -- in small doses.  Maybe it's the unrelenting pace of fiestas and margaritas.  This place has been madness since mid November with the St. Andres fiesta  followed by four days of blessed peace, followed by the Virgin of Guadalupe fiesta.    Each of these tributes lasts nine days and are buckets of fun and noise but towards the end (like now --only one more day) one gets a little tired. And we are not even going to the fiestas every night and drinking to 2AM and dancing our shoes off like the locals. We are just  trying to sleep.  The other morning on the first day of the Virgin of Guadalupe novena there were 48 (oh, my God they are going off AGAIN as I type) cohotes at 6:04 AM.  These were proceeded by the sound of the dinner bell heard on Bonanza which pealed for a minute or two followed by Las Campanas -- the church bells --for about five minute. The finale was the worst tuba band on earth (that is unkind, they try hard).  But it is really fun.  I don't know.  This post will be very existential.  Well, that is grandiose.  It will be scattered.  Because of lack of sleep.  And because SO MUCH is going on.

Thanksgiving

This was the first Thanksgiving that we hadn't been with at least one of our sons and I was prepared to be morose.  But we went to Adelita's with about 15 friends and had a really good Thanksgiving dinner.  I thought it odd that we had to ASK for cranberry sauce but then I remembered how they had stuck it to us for cranberry sauce when we bought it last year (Mexicans don't eat it because they have never seen a cranberry growing in their land) and understood.  Jim brought two of his English as a Second Language Students who were really fun.  The best part was when Jim tried to explain stuffing to them. "You take WHAT and you put it WHERE in the bird because... WHY?"  You know it's amazing how much you accept something because it's just what you've always seen or done.  I mean-- think about stuffing a turkey.  It IS a little weird.  Adored these guys.  Going to go and sit in on Jim's class more.

Michael is Yet Older

In the midst of all the fiestas Michael took a moment to have his birthday.  And celebrated by having the worst cold ever seen on the face of the earth.  So here is the question. Are colds prone to happen when it is cold and people are pushed cheek to jowl indoors spreading slime between them?  If not, why are all those annoying cold remedies commercials aired only from October on.  And, IF THIS IS TRUE, how do you explain a large number of our pals getting colds now when it is 70 degrees, all our windows are perpetually thrown open and we don't like breathe on each other inordinately.  This is a bafflement.  Or, as we say, quien sabe?  He finally recovered and we went out with a few pals to a birthday dinner.  He was OK and did not fall into his plate asleep or anything.  He is quite OK.

The End of the Saint Andres Festival

Michael managed to make it to the end of the Saint Andres Festival which is pretty intense.  Every night of the nine fiesta nights is sponsored by a different trade group (carpenters, masons etc.) and the last night is always a blowout.  Each night, multiple bands are featured from the perennial tuba offerings to top notch banda, mariachi et al.  The plaza rocks with people dancing and the teenagers doing a sort of modern day paseo (sans chaperones it appears)  The paseo involves walking circularly around the bandstand in the center of the plaza and eyeing the talent going in the opposite, or perhaps same, direction.  It gets a little messy because there are throngs of people, rollicking dogs and darting children interfering with the teenage mating ritual.  Despite it all, they manage to mate.

Everybody gathers in the plaza to celebrate San Andres.

Really, Really Random Notes from SOB

Truth to tell I could have held off and had a blog with more material but the upcoming week or two will hold so much that I was afraid I'd have to leave stuff out.  I mean there is another house tour (ANOTHER! can you STAND it!) and the Posadas and odd decorations that have to be covered so this one is just....well... what it is.  But if you need some weirdness:

How to Cut a Soccer Field
The other day I was puttering around and there was this annoying sound.  It was a weed whacker.  Do you know how long it takes to cut an entire soccer field with a weed whacker?  About two hours longer than it takes for me to lose my mind.  When I remarked on this in an astounded tone to a friend he said, "Don't be ridiculous, that's what they use here. " OK. Fine.  Hope the grass on the soccer field doesn't grow really quickly.

Carrots are the New Breadcrumbs
Mexicans have a love affair with carrots.  And I don't blame them.  Their carrots really are tastier than US carrots.  I firmly believe this.  But they keep showing up EVERYWHERE.  Places Americans would never suspect.  Yesterday I bought meatloaf (lazy, lazy I know) from this really nice Mexican woman at the Monday market.  When we ate it last night there were many, many carrots in it.  Mom never did that.  I've never done that.  I didn't think SHE should have done it --but Michael ate it right down.  They seem to use them as filler or binder like we use breadcrumbs.  I'm looking out for them on my next fried filet of trout.

He's Gonna Find Out Who's Naughty or Nice
Oh, yes he is.... The other day I was driving down the carretera just admiring the onslaught of Christmas cheer and bounty when I spied a giant Santa pinata.  It was really cute and big and red.  And I thought "That is really cute.  I bet some kid will love it".  And then, as the light turned, I thought a bit more deeply (but certainly nowhere near profoundly) about the whole thing.  Is it right to give a kid a Santa pinata and have him whack the @#&X% out of it?  Really?  How would the REAL Santa feel witnessing this?  Would it spell coal and hickory switches for the miscreant?  And then my mind detoured to the adorable little llama pinatas and Hello Kitty pinatas and.... well you get the idea.  They should make scorpion pinatas and rattlesnake pinatas and Ted Cruz pinatas.  I'm going to suggest it.

I'm Going to the Shaman..Uh, Huh..I'm Going to the Shaman
Let me preface this by saying that my friend who went to the shaman is a perfectly logical, rational person.  Really.  So when his wife announced that he was shaman-bound for a pulled groin muscle I was astounded.  I begged them for a full recounting of the event just so I could pass all this info on to you guys.  So, here goes.  The wife (you may notice I'm guarding anonymity) told the husband to reveal NOTHING about his injury/problem.  He complied. He climbed on the table and the shaman touched his head.  He said that he had a trapped nerve in one leg and he had "released" it.  But, he also said that he had a torn ligament which could only be repaired in time.  So, my friend was a little impressed but, being British (oops! a clue) didn't swoon over the guy.  However, shaman dude was not finished with him.  He pronounced him in fine overall condition and opined that with a little bit of training (undefined) he would be able to satisfy 30 women.  NOW the husband swooned with glee and the wife dragged him out.  Not bad for 100 pesos or the ego eh?  They'll be no shaman for Michael.

Be Prepared!
The other night we were at The Breakfast Club when our friend Donna (Bye Donna, Miss you Donna -- oh, Todd too) pulled this thing out of her purse.  It resembled nothing other than a feminine hygiene article for perhaps.... an elephant.  "Oh my God Donna! What is wrong with you?" I asked baffled and repulsed.  She laughed and said "It comes free with the toilet paper."  But why? For what?  You see we buy our toilet paper at Costco and obviously have missed out on this wondrous free offer.  OK.  This is what it's about.  You find this stuffed into the inside of the cardboard roll within the toilet paper.  Its use?  Twofold-- no pun intended.  First, some rural rest stops lack toilet paper.  You stick this in your car and you are good to go.  Two, you stick it PROMINENTLY  in your car and people (bad people) know you are Mexican and not a gringo (witness my ignorance) and leave your car alone.  Live and learn.

The freebie in question.

Deirdre & Donna holding the little toilet paper roll.

Yet another Medical Rant

P.S.  Our on-going (probably annoying) health care statistics.  The N.Y. Times had an article  (12/3) on varying costs for specific injuries/treatments etc. in the U.S.  Please write us if you can understand how any of this makes sense:

*  A cut finger requiring stitches in Emergency Room.  Hospital charges only -- not doctor.  New England - $566.00
Pacific states -$1,043.  Middle land states in between the two.

*  Remember my average angioplasty/stent prices from Mikey's earlier adventure.  Well, the California average for that was $117,000.  I think we paid $10K for the whole nine yards.

Ah, but now some of you are saying "but those hospitals must pay for the overwhelming cost of caring for the poor and uninsured and not being reimbursed".  In this study of California hospitals (all NON-PROFIT by the way) the net income ranged from $102 million to $200 million.  Net.  Their charity care costs ranged between $5 an $35 million.


Domesticity

Only after you have lived in a house where the living room features white tile from floor to ceiling terminating in a popcorn ceiling can you truly, truly appreciate it when you don't.  Celebrating our exodus from the Valley of Bad Taste we are enthusiastically embracing the world of home decor in our new house.  We hit Tlaquepaque last week and went shopping mad.  I could not believe Michael shopped (and seemed engaged) for over 4 hours.  This is a personal best for the boy who suffers anxiety and looks like he has to breath into a paper bag after 10 minutes in a mall.  We got a painting of a folklorico dancer (well, most of her but you have to see it to understand) and a couple of sculptures for the alcoves outside the door and a really neat bedspread made of indigenous weavings like a quilt and toilet paper holders (it can't ALL be exciting).  So-- settled in and gearing up for Christmas.  Will reveal more shortly.  Hope you all enjoy the ramp up to the big day.  Take care.

The painting which now hangs on our dining room wall.

The two heron sculptures prominently displayed on our entryway.

Vino Blanco ensconced in his new surroundings. No more lake, but a pool instead.

We also attended another charro event. They start riding even before they can reach the stirrups.

The charro dresses are very colorful, as modeled by this young senorita.

A church we recently came across in our travels.

Note the three large polished brass bells on the three church spires.