Wednesday, January 17, 2024

Happy New Year and Yes. We Are Alive!

 It's Been A Long, Long Year...and now it's over!

While sparing you the gory details, I will summarize our year as less than stellar.  So, let's just move on and hope for a more groovy 2024, in spite of multiple wars, political upheaval and climate change.  Stop Deirdre!  It will be fine.

So, this will be a short post just to kick off the year.  I must say Ajijic is a great place to spend New Years. The Mexicans really know how to enjoy a holiday.  I mean in a country where the Day of the Dead is a festive event you can only imagine what New Years is like.

We began the celebration with our good friends Sally and Mike who, each year, host a Midnight In Paris Party.  I offer this up to you readers of a certain age who find reaching midnight to be a bridge too far.  So, with a Midnight in Paris party everyone celebrates at what would be midnight in Paris.  For us in the Central Time Zone that means 5 PM.  Assembling at 4 PM with wine in hand and massive appetizers we count down to champagne and toasts at five, more eating and drinking and we're home at 9:00.  Perfect.

Having tucked in early we are prepared for the annual New Years Parade in the Village.  This is not the Parade of Roses but it does have its charms.  It is alleged that the parade originated as a method to cool hostilities between two barrios of the village.  Rather than physical hostility it was decided that a healthy competition was in order.Thus they created the parade and decided a battle of the floats beat a battle of the fists. Over time the original impetus was lost and it just became another festive event.

The parade was billed to start "between noon and 1:00". We were far too experienced to fall for that.  We showed up a bit before 1:00 and thus only had to wait and hour and a half more until the parade appeared.  But it was not wasted time.  We made new friends.  That is the beauty (or one of the beauties) of this place.  If you just plop yourself down somewhere odds are you will meet interesting people.  So, as we sat on our concrete bench we made friends with a Canadian couple.  He had been a news cameraman and had some interesting tales to tell.  On Michael's side was a woman who was born in Mexico and was a professor at Carnegie Mellon.  She was visiting Leon to celebrate her 60th birthday  and decided to swing by Ajijc. We chatted with our new pals for over an hour and then enjoyed the parade together.  It is a sweet place.

I said this would be short and it will.  Mardi Gras will be rolling in soon and we will be going to Mazatlan in April to witness the total eclipse which passes directly overhead.  Hopefully we'll get to do some more extensive travel as the year unwinds and we'll have more tales to share.  In the interim, have a happy and healthy New Year and let us know what you are up to. 

Even the abuela (grnadmother) & her nietos (grandchildren) participate in the parade.

The Barbie theme was big this year.

This man was providing his own horsepower, while fueling it with cerveza.



What's a parade without a little confetti...
.
with some dispensed by an angel.

Even Spiderwoman was part of the parade.
Los seis esquinas (six corners) had a dragon in the parade.

The "torito" or bull frame with firecrackers attached was on the hood of this vehicle.

This cute pair look like they are ready for their performance in the Nutcracker.

These are either supposed to be young fairies...

or mariposas (butterflies).

NO New Year's parade is completer without the Grinch, appearing as the DJ for this event.

I'll let you use your imagination on this one.

No parade would in Ajijic would ever be complete without the caballo & caballero.



The young children get in on the action as well.

Not too many parents NOB (North of the Border) would have their young child....

riding on top of the car, no matter how slow it may be going.

As can be seen from these two photos, the "naughty" nuns put in an appearance as well.


There were many characters with large papier mache heads...

of different types...

and varieties.


One of the more intriguing floats was this one with the young man riding...

and balancing on a large papier mache bull.

Santa Claus himself put in an appearance having dispensed with his rigorous Christmas duties...

to help celebrate the New Year.

A spaceship with aliens following were also part of the parade.

This young girl had perfected the "royal wave".


Monday, July 17, 2023

The Last Lap

 Disclaimer:

This is, we believe, the longest blog we have ever done -- not by intent.  There were just so many photos and once you put them in it is really hard to like chop the blog in half and issue two instead of one.  So, you may want to break your read in half or you may want to get two beers instead of one.  Just warning you..... Heading into the Home Stretch

By now we had gone from Tuscany, down the west coast, across the toe of the boot to Sicily, back across the toe to the heel of the boot on the east coast and now we were heading up to the Alps via Bologna. It had finally stopped raining (praise Allah) and with smiles on our faces and a song in our hearts we headed out for our Agriturismo outside of Bologna.

We Don't Talk About Food... But

Michael had plotted the exact midpoint on our trip to Bologna where we would stop for lunch. Faggio had nothing to recommend it except for its convenient location and by this time we'd eaten so much that we were not being picky.  The restaurant opened at 12:30 and we were early so we parked and surveyed the landscape.  Hot Damn!  There was a street market.  It was a big one and the first we had seen that even began to rival the French markets we adore.   We spent a blissful half hour admiring giant peppers and lustrous eggplants before tearing ourselves away to dine.

We entered the charming but unassuming restaurant.  We were the first customers.  We are ALWAYS the first customers in Europe -- so gauche.  A waitress approached and we ordered glasses of wine.  Two bottles arrived and it was clear we were supposed to work our way through them -- sober driving be damned.  And then it began.  Not a word was spoken - a relief considering our linguistic challenges-- and small plate after small plate began arriving.  One more amazing than the last. Sea bream in cream, risotto with black truffles-- I'll just let your imagination do the rest.  Somewhere around plate three the chef/owner arrived to welcome us.  He spoke some English and told us of his family's olive groves on the coast while gifting us with a bottle of the most delicious, spicy olive oil I've ever had.  It was fennel that gave it a little kick. Twelve plates, a bottle of wine each and a glass of limoncello and we rolled out of the restaurant and hit the road once more.  In our three hours in the town we never saw anyone who looked remotely like a tourist.

The seafood at the market was plentiful...

as can be seen in these photos.

But so was the variety of fruit and vegetables as can be seen in this series of photos.



Several varieties of cheeses...

nuts and honey...

and dried fruit as well.

This is the interior of the restaurant where we had lunch - nothing fancy here.

However you can see how fantastically delicious our meal was reflected in the smile on Deirdre's face.

The exterior of the restaurant did not portend the delightful meal either.

Should you ever find yourself in Faggio, remember the name of this restaurant, and don't miss the opportunity for a fabulous, unforgettable meal.


Two other meals were noteworthy.  One was on the beach in Calabria.  It was quite chic and offered a tasting menu which we felt we deserved due to our suffering both evil weather and the Amalfi Coast.  It was very good but Faggio was better and probably half the price.  It was a beautiful setting though.  The third meal was in Brindisi and it was actually the appetizers that stunned us.  They brought ten small appetizers -- all of which were great.  Reminded us of the mezes of Turkey.  Enough about food.

The wonderful view from the Riva Restaurante in Calabria.


Everybody Talks About Bologna

Well, not quite enough about food. Bologna is supposed to be the culinary highpoint of Italy and it may be true.  And maybe it was because we were coming off the Faggio meal that we found our three meals in Bologna somewhat lacking.  We arrived at our Agriturismo at the appointed check in hour to find the door open but nobody home. After about a half hour (and the arrival of other disgruntled guests) the grouchy brother showed up and grudgingly and slowly conducted the check in procedure.  We had planned on having dinner there since they got rave reviews but he growled, "No, tomorrow."  Cowed by his attitude, we meekly agreed to dine with them the next night.  It was disappointing I'm afraid. Our other agriturismos had been in the country with beautiful views and accommodating hosts.  This one was on the fringe of the industrial section of the town and the brothers -- grouchy and semi-grouchy-- had failed the charm course given to hoteliers I think.

We had to choose whether to go into Bologna the next day or cruise around the countryside.  We chose to try to see five very small towns that were touted to be among the most beautiful in Italy.  Our theory is while Michael can still drive we should see the places a tour bus will never take you.  This day was one of our most delightful of the trip.  The first town we reached was La Scola.  They were preparing for a festival as Michael's photos will show.  It reminded us of Sienna where they set up the tables in the alleys and streets to celebrate or mourn the results of the Palio.  It was a weekend and the populace was out and about providing ample opportunity for excellent people watching.

One common theme throughout Italy, even in the very small towns, was the Church in the main plaza.

Here you can see the archway leading into the walled portion of the town.

One of the best features of these walled towns is the lack of traffic. Friends can stop in the middle of the road to exchange pleasantries without fear of being run over.

This building has gone "green".

The colonnaded walkways provide respite from the hot sun and protection against rain & snow.

The table are set for the communal feast.

A view of another of the town gates. And the proud Nonnas.


On the way to the second town we had the strangest encounter/coincidence of the trip.  We had stopped at a small grocery store to pick up a couple of things.  We were the object of much attention since we obviously didn't belong there.  As we left the store a woman approached us and asked if we were American.  Replying that we were she asked us where we were from.  We said Boston.  She smiled broadly and said, "Ah, beautiful Wellesley!"  We were stunned since we had lived in Wellesley for 30 years and it was not a metropolis that a person in rural Italy would know. Due to our mutual problems with the other's language we smiled and went on our way shaking our heads.  While we were driving, I put two and two together.  Over a hundred years ago when Wellesley College was being built, the college recruited Italian stone masons from around Bologna to work on the campus.  I know this because when I was teaching I had 3 little boys who were descended from one of the workers and their mother told me that they had come from Bologna.  To this day, the families of these emigrants live in a close-knit neighborhood near the college.  And clearly they maintain their relationships with the "old country".  Very fun.

We proceeded to the second town, San Pietro which was charming but pretty similar to La Scola.  We plopped ourselves at a cafe in the Plaza and people watched for a while and then we were on our way once more. Our third village was Bazzano.  There was a small old town which had been fought over incessantly by Florence and Sienna.  Once Florence captured it, tore it down stone by stone and moved it to Florence and the Sienna came back, captured it and rebuilt it.  By far, the most unusual village we visited was Dozza.  Perched high on a hill, it was a village totally given over to art. Living in Ajijic, which is a village of murals, we appreciate strolling and being intrigued by the art that surrounds us.  And Dozza doesn't disappoint.  Michael's photos will provide a much better description than I could offer verbally.  We had a hard time pulling ourselves away from Dozza to the extent that we never made it to the last village on our itinerary.  Sometimes you just have to chuck the script and go with the flow.

Parking in this town was confined to an area outside a municipal building.

The main municipal building in the town plaza was much more ornate with its large clock, bell and figures adorning the top.

Another church in the main plaza, but this one...

had the priest standing outside observing everyone as they passed.

Another view of the main municipal building with people congregating outside.

The clock tower and gate to one of the entrances to Dozza.

This old building housed a museum, but is also a popular wedding venue. We saw one wedding party depart as we arrived and another arrive as we were leaving the building.

The interior courtyard is a preferred place to hold a wedding ceremony.

One of the ancient murals can still be seen (if faintly) on the wall of the interior.

The detail included on this pitcher and the one after the mended pot below shows the craftsmanship in the second century.

Metal was so precious that this pot was mended multiple times.


A view of the Rocca di Sforzesca Dozza (Dozza Castle) with one of its towers.

In addition to its many murals, Dozza has some unique and interesting sculptures.




As soon as you enter through the town under the clock...

you begin to see the murals adorning the walls of Dozza.



Even the Carabinieri Station has a mural.

Every two years the town has an art competition and murals are painted on the walls throughout the town.

Dozza holds a wine festival as well on the first Sunday in May.




Some of the artists incorporate the buildings into the art.

This color version of the Pietà is in the Chiesa de Santa Maria Assunta in Piscina in Dozza, as well as the ornate altar below. 


This entrance to Dozza shows the whimsical nature of some of the murals.

Comics as art in this mural.

The three dimensional quality of this mural caught my eye.

Another example of incorporating elements of the building in the mural.

One of the few sculptures in the walled portion of the town.

Another example of whimsy with this kite flyer at one level...

with the string leading to the kite at the upper level.

A recreation of an old movie poster.

The imagination of the artists knows no bounds.


Onward to the Lakes  (But first a Short Detour)

The next morning it was time to bid adieu to the dour duo of brothers and head to Lake Como.  On the way we were to pass San Marino.  We felt obliged to stop by and visit the third smallest country in Europe and the fifth smallest country in the world --- which it surely is.  Once again, we climbed and climbed -- but at least in a car.  At least for a while.  And then it was time to once again hoof it up very, very steep and somewhat perilous, scree filled hillsides to reach he three watchtowers guarding the city.  Very good views. Rather charming village.  But, like Andorra, San Marino's claim to fame is tax free shopping.  It is alleged that Italians cannot indulge in the tax free shopping but it looked to us as if they were oblivious/uncaring/defiant about that legality.  Since we had no desire to purchase Rolex watches or Cartier jewelry we clambered downhill to our car to resume our journey to the Lakes.

Views of the countryside from the heights of San Marino.


As we were walking I found this butterfly on the purple thistle flower.

One of the three towers of San Marino.

The second of the three towers.

Here archeologists were excavating next to one of the towers.

The third and most impressive tower of San Marino.

The shopping street lined with duty free shops...

and this Museum of Curiosity...

featuring this reproduction of the 639 kilogram man (1,408.754 lbs). It did not entice us to enter.

All of the clocks harken back to the days when wrist watches were not available.

The Basilica del Santo Marino was started in 1826 & consecrated in 1855.

The symbols of the three major faiths are shown, although the small population (4,061) is 97% Roman Catholic.


I had been to Lake Como about 20 years ago when I had taken our sons backpacking through Europe one summer, but Michael had never been there and I was sure he would like it.  Getting there involved another interlude with tunnels and twisting narrow roads but it was a piece of cake after Amalfi.  Well until we reached Bellagio -- the "Pearl of the Lake".  The place was packed.  We had to take the ferry across the Lake which was easier said than done,  As we approached where the GPS told us to turn a very helpful policewoman gestured that we should go straight.  This landed us in a restricted pedestrian only zone - and not for the first time in Italy.  After executing an excruciating U-turn we went back to said policewoman and insisted on entering.  She yielded and we got to the ferry landing which exemplified the level of efficiency and organization (none) that you would expect from an Italian transportation entity.  We had a very sweet apartment right by the Lake with astounding views.  The Lakes often have a moody appearance with clouds and mist rising and falling over the Alps and during our visit they did their best to display their full range of emotion.

Lake Como and the surrounding mountains can present as quite moody, with its low hanging clouds and overcast skies, as can be seen in these next series of photos.





Later in our stay the skies did lighten, but the clouds were still omnipresent.


The bell tower in the background is on the church of Saint Stefano, whose construction began in 1618.

In the picture above this one on the right you can see the portal. This photo gives you a better view of the facade of the church of Saint Marta. In Italy even a small town like Mennagio can't have too many churches.

A closer view of the fresco of Madonna and Child above the entrance to Saint Marta.

A view of the walkway and buildings by the harbor of Mennagio.


All along Lake Como are little villages with the requisite church....

and buildings hugging the shoreline.

There are also some magnificent villas.

One morning, after a rainstorm the previous night, this cloud was floating over the lake.


The following day, we decided to abandon car travel in favor of riding the ferry to visit various ports along the shore of the lake.  The great part about the ferries is that you meet a lot of interesting people from all over and you can chat as you glide along.  We were relieved to find Bellagio a bit more calm than the prior day which was a Sunday.  Clearly a lot of folks from Milan head up to the Lake to relax and clog things up. I'm going to let Michael's pictures take you on a tour of the lake.  You will be disappointed to learn that we saw neither George Clooney nor his house. Sigh.

The steep steps leading up to upper Bellagio.

A view looking down the steep steps from upper Bellagio.

A sculpture at the Bellagio ticket office.


The Church of San Martino was constructed in 1891 and was the first Anglican church in Italy.
(No we did not make the hike up to the church.)
The Villa Carlotta, is now a museum and botanical garden consisting of 70,000 m2 (17 acres) in Tremezzo, on the shore of Lake Como. It was built in 1745 by Milanese marquis Giorgio Clerici. After several owners, it was acquired in 1843 by Princess Marianna, wife of Prince Albert of Prussia. Princess Marianna gave the Villa to her daughter Charlotte as a wedding gift. Thus the name Villa Carlotta.



The garden around the fountain in front of the villa...

and the fountain in the center.

Another dripping fountain,  below the steps on either side which lead up to the Villa & museum,...

with its resident turtles. 



A view of the entrance gate, the fountain and garden from the top of the steps.

The statue of Mars & Venus by Luigi Acquisiti in 1805, is considered his masterpiece.

Repentant Magdalene is a copy of the original created by Antonio Canova, by the Canova school of artists.

Palamedes was sculpted by Antonio Canova. It was broken into pieces before it left his atelier when the Tevere River flooded his workshop. Canova restored it and the statue arrived at the Villa in 1819.

The many mirrors reflect the paintings, busts and statues throughout the Villa.

The Villa is also home to 470 plaster cameos created by the Roman artist Giovanni Liberotti.

The Last Adieu of Romeo & Juliet by Francesco Hayez.

One of the very ornate ceilings in the Villa...

with this photo showing a small section of the detailed ceiling.

The paintings and furnishings demonstrated the opulence of the Villa.

Eros & Psyche is a sculpture by Adamo Tadolini. This is a marble copy taken from the original model used by Antonio Canova for the sculpture commissioned by Prince Nikolai Borisovich Yusupov, a Russian nobleman.

The original is in the Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg.

This copy arrived at the Villa in 1834.


On our last day prior to our flight home we ducked over into Switzerland to visit Lake Lugano.  At this point, done with both cars and boats, we relied on our feet to savor the town.  There is an absolutely beautiful park by the Lake and we started out by taking a stroll there.  In mid- morning the park was very quiet with a few dog walkers and joggers.  We walked along the promenade up to a church Michael wanted to see and then back down through the pedestrian shopping area which was not unlike 5th Ave.  Those Swiss must really earn the big bucks. By the time we brought our picnic lunch back to the park the place was rocking.  The schools must either get out early or have a lunch break because literally hundreds of kids were in the park.  There were picnic blankets spread everywhere and mothers (and a surprising number of business attired fathers) were relaxing and chowing down.  It seemed that Lugano would be a very civilized and pleasant home town. If expensive....

Deirdre admires the floral arrangement while looking at Lake Lugano.

A view from the lake to Villa Ciani.

It is hard to tell whether this figure of Socrates is supposed to be napping or is drunk.

This stainless steel sphere required two photos....

to appreciate, not only its reflective nature, but also the chunks missing from the sphere.

This carved stone was another of the interesting objects in the park.

This bold sparrow in the park allowed me to take its photo.

The exterior of Chiesa Santa Maria degli Angeli.



and a photo of the ornate altar.





This is the monument to Carlo Battaglini, who was Mayor of Lugano from 1878 until his death in 1888.

One of the main pedestrian shopping streets in Lugano.

Along this stretch were some very interesting buildings...

and an early shopping arcade.

There were a lot of statues, including this on of Eros Blinded.

This building on the far side of the park...

was erected to celebrate the first centenary of the freedom of Ticino, the canton in which Lugano is located.


The End of the Road

From there it was back to Milan, a flight to Newark (always a delight) and a connection to Ajijic. I will not regale you with the joys of air travel since you probably have your own horror stories to tell.  A week to recuperate and we were off to Los Angeles to visit Justin and now we are on our way to a wedding in the Hill Country in Texas for a few days.  After that we are committed to remaining in Ajijic.  We'll see how long that lasts.... Happy summer to you all.  

Our very last stop was at the Villa Verganti Veronesi.

The Villa is a favorite destination location for weddings...

with all of the appropriate bowers...

a very beautiful, large lawn...

and a magnificent pool.