Another Year in Ajijic

Enter 2014

The week between Christmas and New Years was weird and trying on several levels.  Now, I know we can't complain because all of our NOB friends have been going through hell with the polar vortex but, honestly, you KNOW your climate is subpar.  We, on the other hand, have believed that we live in nirvana.  However, of late, our climatic paradise has been turned upon its ear.  During a week in which rain NEVER falls, we recorded over 8"of the stuff.  The winds howled, the temperature dropped (to the 40s over night) and small children appeared on the street swaddled in enough clothing to keep them toasty in the Antarctic.  Chihuahua's were decked out in sweaters, scarves and tiny, tiny boots.  There was not a space heater to be bought for 50 miles and the smell of burning wood was heavy in the air as fireplaces were put into use.  The mood was grim and sulky.  Michael got a hideous cold.  But the New Year came anyway.

A Most Politically Incorrect Parade

Let me preface this by saying that the New Years Day Parade is neither sanctioned nor sponsored by anyone.  It is a totally organic event which originated, if you believe the street, as a method of smoothing over "tensions" between various neighborhoods in the west end of town.  It is a far better method than street warfare, but to say that it is a tad rough around the edges would be a fair statement.  And the beauty of the village is that basically you can do what you want (within a very broad range of options) without any permission or permits.  So, to give examples.  Your Uncle Santiago dies and you want to have the wake in the street outside your house.  Fine.  Shut down the street with upended, empty barrels, throw up some chairs and tables and you're good to go.  No permits.  You want to have a Zombie Dance that will totally take over the Plaza followed by a parade which will disrupt traffic for an hour.  Fine. No permits.  You decide to have a rave attended by 3,500 people that rips up the entire soccer field and sends six people to the hospital with anxiety attacks from the noise.  Well, not OK.  You needed a permit.  But you didn't get one.  But nothing happens to you anyway. So, those are the rules in Ajijic.

For the first day in a week, New Years Day dawned bright and dry.  The denizens breathed a collective sigh of relief, stripped off the thirteen layers of fleece they'd been wearing, slipped on the Ray Bans and were ready to face the Day.  Other than the above, there is not much to say about The New Years Day Parade other than that it is the warm up to Mardi Gras.  Well, the Sayacas start acting up in January to get ready for Mardi Gras but the New Years Day Parade is really the first shot fired across the bow.

It is hard for me to pick a favorite float in this parade.  Some are just adorable (like the little kids in the dwarf/elf outfits), some are just inexplicable (like the Obama supports La Villa float) and some are just so out of sync with what is proper (bushmen vs. bwana) that it is hard to choose.  But you KNOW I chose the bushmen vs. bwana.  I mean the NERVE!  Can you even begin to fathom what would occur if they put this float in the Macy's Parade?  I mean they went ballistic over Shamu or Seaworld or whatever. I regret that my Spanish is not good enough to have engaged in a conversation with the group that came up with this idea.  It did not appear mean spirited or even particularly racist (well, of course it WAS but that didn't seem to be the intent).  And I mean they had just offered up a really nice float to Obama.  This is another of those quien sabe moments.  If it had been Cortes and the Aztecs……

There's nothing like a glass gun filled with Tequila to keep you warm.

Drinking & riding is allowed during the parade.

The hood of the truck says it all...

and here he is.  With retired Secret Service gringos no doubt.   Or exiled Fast and Furious agents.

The young ones participate as well.

We didn't know our lake had its very own Medusa.

The bushmen made an appearance...

although one preferred to ride.  What you don't see is the Bwana
 in pith helmet shooting a rifle at the bushmen from the truck bed.  Tough to capture on film.

Even the Mario brothers participated in the parade...

as well as pirates.

But the cutest were the little kids throwing confetti at the crowd...

dressed in their parade costumes.

The smurfs were in the parade as well...

as were the drag queened  Polynesians.

And of course no parade is complete without some loud explosions, as the firecracker is lit by a tribe of mimes.
I hate mimes.

Some of the spectators needed sunglasses to cover up their bloodshot New Year's Day eyes. (Photo credit to Barbara Hildt)

On to Tres Reyes

I was always jealous of the kids who got to celebrate Christmas and Chanukah.  I mean really.  That is cool.  Well, here almost all the kids get the same kind of double whammy.  America has exported Santa  Claus (or as my Spanish conversation teacher calls him Coca Claus) and so the kids get presents at Christmas.  But traditionally (and don't think the little guys will let tradition die) they get presents on Three Kings Day which is January 6th.  I know.  You want to know why my Spanish teacher calls him Coca Claus.  According to him, Santa only really took off here after Coca Cola introduced him in their ads in 1952.  And, I must admit they really do a great advertising job to this day.  Their Santa is just the jolliest, cutest, pudgiest one you have ever seen.  And this year the slogan was Santa saying: Yo creo in ti.  or… I believe in YOU.  Nice huh?  But I digress.

So, Epiphany or Three Kings Day is a big deal here.  Children do the present list here too.  They usually either put the list in their shoe and under the bed or tuck it into the Nativity scene in their house on the night of December 5th.  Now, of course, the presents are delivered on the 6th-- so either these parents have ESP or the stores are really crowded around 10PM on the 5th.  I must ask a Mexican friend about this.  Beyond the presents, there are many festive events that transpire.  On the Plaza each year they recreate the Three King's visit to the newborn king.  This is replete with bonfires, live animals, a cute real Baby Jesus and all the supporting cast.  There is a special cake (Rocas de Reyes - Crown of the Kings) that is baked in the shape of a crown.  Decorating it are candied fruit pieces which represent the jewels in the crowns of the Three Kings.  And, inside each cake, resides one or more monitos (small plastic baby Jesus').  It represents hiding the baby Jesus from Herod.  If you get one of these it is your responsibility to host a tamale dinner for all your friends on February 2nd which is Candlemas and the official end of the Christmas season.  Our friend Luzma says they used to also put a thimble and a ring in the cake.  The ring represented that you would marry in the year while the thimble indicated you'd still be an old maid at year's end.  Somehow, those items were deleted when the cakes became mass produced.

A picture of the Rosca de Reyes.

These children from Love In Action, where Deirdre and Barbara volunteer, are ready to celebrate Dia de Tres Reyes. (Photo credit to Barbara Hildt)

Now, not this year, but some years, Christmas barely ends at Candlemas before Mardi Gras and then Lent begins.  And you wonder why we, in Mexico, are tired.

A New Year's Cultural Note 

Some of the New Year's Eve Traditions:

*  You know this one.  Eat 12 grapes in one minute at Midnight.  Some just gulp them down.  Others eat a grape and say "Happiness" grape 1, grape 2 "Health, grape 3 -- well you get the idea.  This is not as easy to do as one would think.  And the grapes are big.
*  If you want to travel in the coming year, you take a suitcase and walk around the block with it to ensure that your wanderlust will be sated.
*  Wear red underwear for success in love and yellow to ensure wealth.  If you wear red and yellow striped underwear you will just be judged weird and get neither.


Well, Happy New Years to you and yours.  We probably won't blog again until after the next road trip. Once again, we will be wending our way through the enchanting thoroughfares of Michoacan.  This time we SWEAR we will stay on the toll roads.  It will all be fine…..

(The parade pictures are courtesy of Deirdre and Barbara Hildt, since Michael was not well enough to make it out of the house that day.)  He is fine now.

Bedazzled by the Aztecs -- and Frida--and it all

Where to Start

I have no idea.  Mexico City is huge.  Like Los Angeles times three.  With worse traffic.  Could be 8 million. Could be 28 million.  Depends on who's counting.   This is, after all, Mexico.  Despite the odds, we all arrived in Mexico City at roughly the same time and headed to our house that we had rented for the week.  Okay, I'll start there.

The House 

While cruising through possible abodes on VRBO (highly recommended) I found this absolutely enchanting house.  It was one of about 12 old time townhouses on this little pedestrian Mews-like thing conveniently located near the Centro Historico and upscale Reforma.  Phrases like "stepping back in time", "authentic and romantic" kept cropping up in the reviews.  Done.  We're there.  

And it was all that.  And for two or three days it would have been SUCH an experience.  But by day seven we were done in.  You know, a dishwasher is swell.  Double beds should be outlawed. Heating systems are an excellent idea.  Now, no whining Deirdre.  We had a great time and the photos will show why I was drawn in.  The only person with no complaints was Alex who bonded instantly to the "rustic" kitchen with a century old stove the size of a Sherman tank. Upon, and within which, he cooked an exceptional Christmas dinner. Pricing info.  Alex suggested a prime rib roast.  I blanched at the possible expense.  We trotted over to the market and procured a 2.5 kilo  (about 6 lb.) Argentinian grass fed Prime Rib Roast for 260 pesos (roughly $20USD).

This is the entryway from the street. The door to our house is on the right.

The outdoor hallway with plants.

Alex in the library (and also his bedroom) with the futon to the right.

The outdoor hallway --- the stairs leading up from the entrance are on the right.

Our bedroom with the "matimonial" bed.  Way small.

Alex's dream kitchen with the giant stove.

The other side of the kitchen with the giant tiled sink on the left.

Alex declared this a very well equipped kitchen.

The dining room, with a view to the outside walkway.

There is a small courtyard below which is open to the elements.

Sights

You know I won't drag you through them all but feel compelled to mention a few since most people never think of Mexico City as a place they'd really vacation -- unless you're Mexican, and maybe not even then.  Our friend Luzma found us a driver who we hired for two days.  Really nice guy named Adrian who pointed out numerous times that he was not ONLY a driver but a body guard and then resolutely declared, each time, that Mexico City was perfectly safe.  Hmmm.  A slight kink was that Adrian only spoke Spanish which resulted in many odd looks passing between us as we mangled Spanish and he attempted to sort out what the hell we meant.  It all worked out.  Pretty much.

Teotihuacan is an ancient Aztec city about 20 miles outside of Mexico City.  At one point ( I can't remember WHICH point but long ago will do) 175,000 folks lived there farming, trading, fighting and sacrificing one another.  But here's the real deal -- Pyramids!  Giant.  The Pyramid of the Sun is the 2nd largest in the world next to Giza.  But Egypt is a mess, so go here instead.  You may remember that heights are a problem for me (Phobia #1) which meant I spent long periods staring upwards, chanting prayer-like pleas that the rest of them would not fall off these ridiculously steep, high, uneven edifices. Michael and Alex (and stalwart Adrian) made it to the top of the Sun Pyramid.  At this point, we extend bravos to Dr. Gus and Dr. Santiago for  the admirable pasting together of Michael's decrepit knee.

Amazing detail for a structure built between 100 BC and AD 250. Note the shells inserted in the wall.  The city is hundreds of miles from the coast.

The descent from one of the smaller pyramids.

The pyramid of the Sun which extends 231 feet into the air.

While walking around the pyramid we spotted this teporingo or zacathuche (volcano rabbit), the world's second smallest rabbit.

Justin ascending the pyramid of the Sun (to the left of the person with the backpack).

Alex taking a rest stop on the way up the pyramid.  "My God," says Deirdre, "Is that woman wearing HEELS?"

This is the pyramid of the Moon viewed from the pyramid of the Sun.

Michael & Alex on top of the pyramid of the Sun with the pyramid of the Moon in the background.

Looking down from the pyramid of the Sun on the descent.

A recreation of the colorful decorations --- the first murals.

Even after all this time the red color from long ago is still visible on these walls.

The Floating Gardens of Xochimilco.  There were zillions of Aztecs in Mexico City at the height of their power and they all wanted to eat.  But it was hard to get the water from the Lake up to higher ground to grow things so they brought soil to the lake and built floating gardens out of sticks, reeds and the soil. Voila! It was so clever even the Spanish didn't destroy them-- unlike virtually everything else they came across. Even today the canals are used to cultivate flowers, food and most importantly FUN.  I was getting a little educational there, so I'll stop.  We went there on a Sunday afternoon which is the primo time for entering into a favorite pastime of Mexico City residents.  You rent a barge and float around the canals.  While floating you can buy food and beer from passing vendors, order up a Mariachi Band, buy jewelry, flowers and probably contraband if you know how to ask.  Whole families are dancing up a storm, drinking beer and dandling babies.  Photos will reveal all.

Our barge poler pushing off as we join the throngs crowding the canals of Xochimilco.

You can see how close the barges are and each one is named and colorfully decorated.

You can even hire mariachis to serenade you as you travel the canals.

We passed by the spooky Ilas de las Munecas (island of the Dolls). To see more about his spooky tale go to: http://strangesounds.org/2013/05/discover-the-starnge-and-dark-history-of-the-island-of-dolls-confined-in-the-xochimilco-canals-near-mexico-city-video.html

Families and friends enjoy a day on the canals.

Floating stores provide gifts for the children.

More mariachis to entertain while floating on the canals.

Food is freshly cooked and available as you travel on the canals.

It is only appropriate that there should be a floating nursery as well.

Free entertainment, not always welcome by some, is available as you float along.

A woman offers roasted corn and some other unidentifiable item.

Where there is water children will want to play in it.

Adrian was kind enough to take this family portrait.

We did all the museums and went to the Basilica of the Virgin of Guadalupe.  You have to go back to an old post (Dec.2012, I think) on Juan Diego, the tilma, the roses et al.  Won't go into it. Went to the Zocalo (Plaza) which was all suited up for Christmas and featured ice skating and sledding.  Strange. Diego Rivera, Frida Kahlo and Trotsky took up a lot of our time (read The Lacuna by Barbara Kingsolver if you want to get into all that).  All in all, a lot of fun.

Frida's self portrait.

Frida's death mask lies on Frida's bed.

The urn on the left contains Frida's ashes.

Deirdre as Frida Kahlo & Michael as Diego Rivera.

 A bust of Trotsky.

One of the guard towers at Trotsky's house.

A pock-marked wall from the bullets fired during the first assassination attempt of Trotsky.

Trotsky's office where he was assassinated with an ice axe wielded by the boyfriend of one of his secretaries.

The first basilica of the Virgen de Guadalupe, completed in 1709. You can see how much the basilica has begun to sink by the cant of the tower.

The interior of the new basilica constructed in 1976.

The actual portrait of the Virgen de Guadalupe on the tilma of Juan Diego.

The original church built on the site where the Virgen appeared to Juan Diego.  It is, of course, on top of an Aztec temple.

The National Pawn Shop

Why, you would ask, would I skip over Diego, Frida and Trotsky and talk about a pawn shop? Because it is just very cool.  The Pawn Shop is owned by the government and has been operational since the late 1700's.  The profits, which look pretty big based on the Christmas business they were doing, go to charity. It is in this magnificent arcade like building.  Next trip I'm going to do some serious shopping.  If the U.S. Congress keeps cutting things like food stamps and unemployment benefits maybe they should set up a National Pawn Shop and funnel the proceeds back to the common folk.  I think I'll write to them.

The entrance to the National Pawn Shop

The stained glass panels in the ceiling of the National Pawn shop...

were amazing...

and seemed to go no forever.

These many noche buena (poinsettias) were used to make a giant Christmas tree.

One of the largest Nativity scenes we had ever seen was in the National Pawn Shop...

and the detail and extent of the display could not be fully captured in these two photos.

When was the last time you saw an organ grinder? There seemed to be several all dressed in the same "uniform", but all were sans monkey. Well, one had a fake monkey.

Or when was the last time you saw Krishnas dancing? The name on the store says it all.

This is what is left of the Templo Mayor after the Spanish knocked it down and used some of the stones to build the Cathedral. 

One of the many murals by Diego Rivera in the Palacio Nacional depicting the history of Mexico from the Aztecs...

to the arrival of the Spanish (you can see how Diego viewed the Spanish).

A beautiful stained glass window at the Cafe de Tacuba where we enjoyed a terrific lunch.

And we close with our wishes to all of you with this picture of the zocalo (an ice skating rink & toboggan run were set up in the square).

The Metro

After we bid Adieu to Adrian we were on our own within the maw that is the Mexico City Metro. Veterans of the T in Boston, we harbored no fear of  mastering a new subway system.  Well, I was a little concerned about descending one hundred feet below ground in a seismically active area which had experienced an earthquake that killed over 10,000 people-- but you know what a worrywart I am. On our maiden voyage we suffered a slight set back.  While politely maneuvering our way into the car, the doors suddenly (and I do mean SUDDENLY) slammed shut with Deirdre, Michael and Alex inside and Justin peering in at us from the platform as the train sped off.  This would not have been too worrying except that: 1) Justin speaks no Spanish;  2) Justin had no pesos and 3) we were not 100% sure he knew what station we were getting off at since it had been a point of some debate.  While we inside the car shouted our destination and mimed his getting the next train as he ran along beside us, we provided endless amusement to the regular riders of the Metro.  Thanks to the wonders of texting we were all reunited and refined our Metro entry strategy to employ a flying wedge technique.

One last Metro note.  I promise.  They have these guys who carry giant backpacks with CD players embedded in them.  They play 5 seconds of every annoying record that has ever been recorded.  If you like the song, you can buy it and they will play the whole thing.  This is a profession.  Really. However, there are posters EVERYWHERE on the subway saying "If you don't buy any, they will go away." Clearly, however, these DJs have not read the posters. No one ever bought one and we were treated to forty-six options between our three stops. We survived.

Well, everyone got back to their respective cities in one piece and with another heartwarming family experience under their belts.  Now it is on to New Year's, Three Kings Day and our road trip through Morelia, Pueblo, Oaxaca and Toluca. Come February we start to see all our Boston/Maine friends coming to visit and seek refuge from the unrelenting blast of Winter.  Can't wait.  Happy New Years and the best of health and happiness to all our friends and family.