The Ultimate Quien Sabe

The End of Nirvana?

So, for three continuous years we have been extolling the simple joys of village life.  The fact that people ride their horses clip-clopping down the street, the kids run free, the dogs run free and everyone sits out on the sidewalk with a beer talking.  No McDonalds, no TJ Maxx (well that one's bad), no sports bars etc. etc.  All that may (and I emphasize MAY) be coming to a horrific, tragic end.

A couple of weeks ago Barbara and Allan were walking on the Malecon in Chapala where some fiesta (it is HARD to keep them straight) was going on.  And they saw a booth describing a new development planned to grace the landscape of Chapala.  After Barbara received CPR, and was able to speak again, she called the writer for the local Lake Chapala Reporter and suggested that she dig into it.

And this is what the reporter found.  A consortium of five large developers has put together a package (they swear already permitted with environmental studies completed) that includes: 1) Five 29 story towers of condos: 2) A seven story mall; 3) 420 lower density housing units; 4) a convention center; 5) an assisted living facility; 6) a hospital and, to top it all off, 7) a casino and 8) a cable car.

Now, we are not some Mexi-newbies.  We've been around the block enough to know that business in Mexico can often just be some flim mixed in with some flam.  But we also know that the culture enjoys an infatuation with money flowing smoothly between those who want and those whose political terms of office are soon to end or begin.  So the gringos are INSANE right now.  What is even more amazing than the Gringos having no idea of this project is the fact that, as far the Gringos can tell, no regular Mexicans knew anything about it.  They are as shocked as we are.

So, this Development Group is sponsoring a "meet and greet" brunch for all of us on Monday.  This should be QUITE the meeting.  I'll report more.

Reporting More

So today we all trundle down to the meeting.  The first speaker is a V.P of something for the Spanish developer.  He seems pretty sophisticated (hackles go up).  He indulges in a number of platitudes telling us things about the climate, easy air access, the unique cultural values etc., etc. -- all the things WE researched before WE moved here.  He asks us to hold our questions.  He then introduces a woman who is clad in platform shoes way too high and pants way too tight for the job at hand.  She avers that she is "totally independent".  She then launches into a monologue reiterating how wonderful it is to live here but how we lack things we need like a seven story mall, a casino (have one regrettably) and a convention center.  People begin asking questions.  Hard questions. Logical questions.  She is on script.  A continuous loop.  Endlessly.  People grow testy.  Very testy.  After the formal presentation people gather around the speaker and one asks: "How can we stop this?"  Gazes harden, body language stiffens.  "You CANNOT stop this". Ah, the fix is in.  We'll see. Maybe it can be stopped. Probably not. Many of us are conflicted.  It would mean a lot of jobs for the area -- but does it have to be so BIG?

A poster showing the layout for a one bedroom condo.

A poster showing the layout for a two bedroom condo, which is exactly the same size as the one bedroom.

The crowd waiting for the presentation to begin. Our friends Howard & Joan are checking their phones.

The Naimar representative speaking to the crowd.

The "independent" consultant listening to a question.

A 3D mockup of the planned development.  The line is the cable car route.  Really.

A poster showing the five towers and the villas in the background.

Reporting Even More

Most of the pivotal events and revelations occurred during Semana Santa and Pasqua -- the two weeks surrounding Easter during which government offices close, Passion Plays take place and mostly everyone goes to the beach.  This made ascertaining anything even more impossible than usual.  However, the offices eventually opened and a "very reliable source" went to investigate in the Chapala Municipal Offices. According to "source" the land has never been bought, the permits have never been approved etc. etc. etc.  The Guadalajara Reporter finally reported the story and chastened the Gringos for behaving "boorishly" at the informational (ha!) meeting.  I agree that people were somewhat less than civil but I've been to zoning meetings in Wellesley far uglier that involved some poor guy who wanted to erect a tool shed.  So.  Where do we stand?  Quien sabe.

Looking to Mezcala to Lead

Faithful readers will remember our last blog where we discussed the Mezcalians (I think that is a word) and their tenacity and ferocity in repulsing anyone who dared to venture into their town. Fueled by mezcal and a genetic antisocial bent they have made Mezcala famous for its unwelcoming demeanor.  This may work to Ajijic and Chapala's advantage (at last).

While reading the Guad Reporter I discovered that Mezcal is facing a crisis similar to ours.  An evil Guadalajara developer has bought up 10 hectares of communal land.  The Mezcalians call the developer a "money-hungry mogul who is eager to fill the countryside with residential complexes, oblivious to preserving Mezcala's nearly virgin environment."  It is alleged he got the parcel "by devious means" and he has fenced it off with armed guards in charge.  They say he is in collusion with government officials (does this sound FAMILIAR?) who view Mezcal as a "gold mine".  They are determined to prevent the kind of "unchecked urban sprawl that has gone on in the Ajijic-Chapala corridor" ---- HEY, wait a minute.  It's not that bad. Yet.

The article continues:  "Mezcala's people are renowned both for their fierce defense of their lands and distrust of outsiders.  In this day and age most look at voracious developers and realtors as enemies.
While the Communidad Indigena is confident of winning a settlement, they fear that the developer will stop at nothing to get them off his back."

Well, that developer better think twice.  I figure once the Mezcalian's "deal" with their developer (and we all know they have their ways) we sign them up.  Yep.  Mercenaries.  After the Mezcalian's have had that first taste of battle (and many tastes of Mezcal) they're not going to want to put the weapons down.  It will be a cinch to get them up to our "unchecked urban sprawl" to take on another cadre of "money-hungry moguls".  It's a plan.  Stay tuned.

Three Years an Ex-pat

Sometimes it feels like an eternity, other times an eye blink.  As of April 14th, we have been in Ajijic for three years.  It's been a wild ride as we've adjusted to a new culture, new language and made new friends. But there have been few regrets -- well, there was that time when the cartel was "disappearing" people right after our arrival.  And when we got lost in Michoachan for 36 hours.  Those events gave us significant pause.  But, all in all, these three years have been right up there for the most exciting, interesting and fun-filled years of our lives. And we're really pleased that many of you have been able to vicariously experience (and in the case of our numerous visitors directly experience) our Ajijic existence.

Going Native

So, you might ask,  how has our Mexican adventure changed us?  Let us count the ways.  This will not be a highbrow account of our intellectual enrichment or spiritual awakening:

1) We don't shop.  That is because there is little to shop for.  Food. Maybe an auto part now and then. Well, art maybe.  Or local crafts.  But not much.

2) We go out ALL the time.  We barely cook.  There is always something going on.  Sometimes too much.  We look forward to staying home the way we used to look forward to going out.

3) We worry less about ourselves and others.  People do insane, crazy stuff here on a regular basis and we have determined that they rarely die.  Six year old kids driving ATVs,  people with trampolines on the roofs of their houses, dogs running loose darting across the carretera, old people walking on cobblestones in the dark.  Most live to see another day.  So have we...thus far.

4)  When meeting new people we do not ask, "So, what do you do?" which was the defining question in our old life.  This is because people here, by and large, "do" nothing.  It is also because we think that if you DO ask them, about 35% of the people just make it up.  "Oh, yes I was an astronaut before I opened a Cross Fit Gym."

5) Our sense of time has been altered.  Mexican time is a fluid thing.  For the first two years we were early for everything and frustrated by every missed deadline or commitment a Mexican person made. We're mostly over it.  In fact, we're starting to do it too.

Other than those rather superficial issues we are just the same as in the States.  Sorry to disappoint.

Going to the Birds

One of the activities that Michael enjoys (which Deirdre does not) is kayaking on Lake Chapala. It is interesting to see the lake in the different seasons and at its different levels. Because of bushes and reeds growing several yards from shore, birds have found a sanctuary of sorts. Neotropic cormorants set up a rookery in the bushes by the hundreds to build nests and raise their young. Herons and egrets also found this to be a great nesting site as well.

A lot of birds find the climate of the lake in winter much better than their northern climes, so the original snow birds come to escape the harsh northern winters. The white pelicans are the most numerous, but in exploring the shore line of the lake several other birds have been spotted. One of these is not even supposed to be here, but the word of our excellent climate must have prompted this one to come. The following photos will show some of our feathered friends who have decided to come for the winter.

A great blue heron perched on a stump in the lake.

The great blue heron in flight.

A neotropic cormorant with its young peeking out of the nest.

A black-crowned night heron, perched on a reed.

This black-crowned night heron caught a fish and is now trying to figure out how to eat it.

A pair of fulvous whistling-ducks 

A tricolored heron hanging out in the bushes off shore.

A pair of northern shovelers.

More northern shovelers with an American avocet to the right.

These American coots are swimming away from the horse who decided to join them.

This black-necked stilt is wading in the shallows looking for food.

A cinnamon teal.

A pair of American avocets.

A great egret taking off from the lake.

A pair of cinnamon teals.

Gulls (most likely ring-billed gulls) flying over the lake.

A glossy ibis that must be lost (they are not supposed to be here).

Our famous white pelicans who winter here. Although lately some have decided to stay year round.

We've been a bit remiss in the blog publishing department the last several months.  We have been SO busy.  And now, another hiatus is in the offing.  We leave on April 23 for LA for a few days followed by a trip to China and Tibet.  We'll be back mid-May and promise to blog whatever adventures/misadventures we experience.  Should be interesting. Well, maybe. In the meantime, enjoy Spring to its fullest and let us know what you are up to. Take care.