Thursday, June 28, 2012

Hola from Switzerland!

If tasked to find two more diametrically different countries than Mexico and Switzerland I would fail the test. Well, maybe in Africa or Asia but whatever. Mexico- messy, Switzerland- obsessively clean. Mexico- really noisy day and night, Switzerland- stillness only broken by occasional cow bell (actually suspended on a cow). But here's one to top the world's an illogical place or maybe two. Drinking water out of a public fountain. Switzerland- Absolutely! all over there are big horse troughs with spigots running into them--- fine to drink out of them. A bottle of drinking water--$6.50 USD. Not kidding. Mexico-- ARE U KIDDING? Out of a fountain? Bottles of water 60 cents USD. What about supply and demand? Huh? Every house in Switzerland has a gun-- everyone is in the militia (very quaint, how effective is in question). There are almost no homicides. Mexico has the strictest gun laws in the Western hemisphere and thousands of deaths (thanks USA) each year. Temperamental differences perhaps?

 Conquering your fears--or not

Well,on to the trip. Michael wanted Switzerland so here we are. Day one was calm. Went to Gruyeres and saw castle, had great fondue, went to Castle of Chillon in Montreux and drove along Lac Leman. Yesterday we drove to the Alps. Staying in the Lauterbrunnen Valley which is two miles long and has 70 waterfalls. Extremely cool. This segment of the trip plays to my trifecta of phobias- 1)acrophobia, 2)claustrophobia and 3)turistaphobia. Yesterday afternoon featured a Trip to the Jungfrau. We departed on a cog railway crammed with 200 or so extended Indian families (phobia 3) and ascended 13,500 feet (phobia 1) in part by going through a 16 mile tunnel very SLOWLY (phobia 2). Once on top we got to play in a snowfield with tiny little ropes keeping you from falling 13k feet (phobia 1) and crammed into an elevator to ascend an additional 350 feet (phobias 1,2,3) to where you can see even further or, worse yet, look through the grated slats beneath your feet to snow 200 or 300 feet below ( big phobia 1). Despite all this, we both had a great time and Michael's arm bruises should heal by trip's end.

 Indians are the new Germans

Now if you are Indian, German or even Japanese, please don't take offense. But remember how everybody always used to rag on the German tourists? They were pushy, loud, obnoxious and frequently drunk? Well move on over Germans! The Indians have arrived! We are not sure if the Lauterbrunnen Valley holds some particular draw for the Indians (like Prince Edward Island and the house of Anne of Green Gables does inexplicably for the Japanese ) or if there are just tens of thousands of Indians roaming the continent of Europe this summer. The average family unit is 8-12 and they are highly effective at forming a flying wedge to achieve entry on all forms of transit. Be warned!

 The Mysterious Mr. Murphy

 We returned to the hotel yesterday and went to get our key. They had taken our bags to our room because when we came the room wasn't ready so this was our first look at it. But there was a guy in front of us in line. Tall, dark, really good looking-- straight out of a Bollywood movie. He smiled winningly at the clerk and said, "A room for Mr. Murphy". Michael and I looked at each other--out of Dublin through Delhi maybe? He and his very alluring female companion, it turned out, had the room directly next to ours with adjoining balconies. Well...you know...it's hard not to overhear... His real name was Sanjay and he proceeded to woo his alluring companion by detailing why she was so much hotter (and to his credit smarter) than the girl his parents had selected for his arranged marriage. I thought the Irish had given up on that a long time ago but who knows. They were both hopelessly full of themselves but they were surgeons so another stereotype goes unchallenged. I am intrigued though. If you're shooting for an alias isn't subtlety a virtue? Enough gossip more in a few days. We'll see if we can get photos.

Geiger Museum Statue - He designed the alien creature in the Alien films.

Glacier at the top of the  Jungfraujoch

Staubach Falls - one of the 70 waterfalls in the two mile Lauterbrunnen valley.

Trummelbach Falls - a waterfall inside the mountain.

Weather observatory at the top of the Eiger.

The Swiss are not that tasteful --- note the trolls in the background.

Cows coming down from the pasture by our hotel.


Saturday, June 9, 2012

Photo of Geriatric Flower Child As Promised

Just couldn't resist putting up this one last little post before we take off.  Michael and I had stopped on the carretera for lunch and to pick up some rotisserie chicken (the spoiled Siam has developed a penchant for this chicken) when along came the ex-lawyer/Vino Blanco owner I discussed in my latest post.  Behold!  Is he not an arresting sight?  I love the whole look but the boots are just the best.  Take care and we'll be in touch.

Wednesday, June 6, 2012

Even The Dogs Say Mañana And Other Ramblings







One of the more interesting aspects of life here is how different the animals are compared to in the States.  Do you remember when you were growing up and your dog just kind of went in and out of the house and ran around unleashed when you went to play baseball or whatever?   Well, it's still 1959 (or 1859) for dogs in Mexico.  They hang out on roofs, in the middle of the street, flopped over on door stoops... where ever the urge to snooze grabs them.   And they are extraordinarily mellow.  No fights.  No yapping.  No hysterical or neurotic behavior.  No The Dog Whisperer.

Sleeping dog in the middle of the street. 
Sleeping dog on the sidewalk.




Michael and I have opined on this matter while sipping the pre dinner cocktail and have decided that it may have a lot to do with breeding-- or the lack thereof.  These are the most unlikely looking mutts to be found anywhere.  It appears that once upon a time in Ajijic there was one very lusty dachshund or perhaps basset hound that bred with every other possible breed of dog creating a dog universe of long, low but wildly different dogs.  As the generations progressed the combinations just became more laughable and the dispositions must have just kept improving.  Because these dogs are unflappable.  Not even Americans and Canadians can ruin these dogs and turn them into nut jobs.  Not that they haven't tried.  Just the other day, I stumbled upon a brand new, private, dog park with all kinds of dog obstacle courses and dog play gyms etc. in a meticulously lawned fenced-in area.  A woman had the basic Ajijic  dog (about 8" clearance to the ground, about 25" long, Chow face, Shepard tail, middle indeterminate) in the play yard and was exhorting it to run and play while it laid on its side on the beautiful grass and rested placidly.  Two Mexican kids were standing at the chain link fence staring incredulously at the spectacle.  "What is this place?" one asked me. "Oh, just another silly American thing," I said. "Si, si, es verdad," they said and moved along with their trusty mutt trailing after them.

Playpark for dogs.


In fairness, the Gringos have done wonderful things for the animals of Ajijic in terms of rescuing street animals, neutering and spaying and helping Mexicans to appreciate pets a bit more than they had in the past.  But I can't help wondering if that very high control need so common in Norte Americanos might just ruin the docile dogs of Ajijic.

And then there is Vino Blanco.  Vino Blanco is a pure white donkey that lives on the beach by the Pier Bar.  Well, it is not a beach.  It is a shoreline because a beach is much nicer.  Well, actually now he lives outside Yves Bar and Restaurant where his owner is a frequent guest.  Vino's owner is quite a character.  According to some friends, he was a lawyer from Seattle in his previous life.  Abandoning that personna, he donned an outfit of white linen pants and shirt with a matching white panama hat.  He then festooned the outfit with all manner of artificial flowers and decorations.  Flowers are woven into his long braid that trails down his back and his walking stick is likewise decorated.  We promise you a picture as soon as possible.  He had a dedicated stool at the Pier Bar but then they changed their music.  He rebelled and threatened to take his business to Yves unless the prior music was restored.  No way, so off he went to Yves.  That is how things go here. Vino is, of course, also very mellow and everyone who walks by rubs his ears or hands him a carrot.  Nobody cares if you feed their animals or play with them or whatever.  When there is a fiesta, they fix Vino Blanco up with a hat with feathers and paint his hooves pink (why? who knows?) and he pulls a cart with small children through the village.  I'm including some pictures of street dogs (we seem to have captured a rare, taller dog in the photo) and Vino Blanco and one of Siam showing how she too has adopted the Mañana attitude of SOB pets.

Siam in restful repose.

Vino Blanco


Three Strange Things We Have Noticed:

1)  Birds are really, really loud here.  Every morning at 6:30, while it is still dark, the birds start up.  They are so loud they wake me from a sound sleep.  It does not appear to be something that you get used to.
2)  We are the only people in town who are still married to their original spouse.  Honest.  One gentleman introduced us to his wife and said : "Yes, Ellen is my first and fourth wife."  Hmmm.
3)  Everyone here puts rubber circles over the drains in their showers.  When we asked why, we were told it is to keep bugs from crawling out into your shower.  I don't even want to know what kind of bugs or where they come from.  I just shut up and put the circles over the drains.

Perhaps I'll do a blog on bugs when I'm feeling more psychologically intact.

We're off to see the Wizard

Well, having been in Mexico for 6 or 7 weeks, it's clearly time to decamp.  We're leaving a week from today and will visit Boston, Switzerland, France and, oddly enough, Newark, NJ.  Well before the move we had arranged to meet Michael's brother and sisters families to celebrate his sister Patricia's 65th birthday (a bit prematurely I must add if I ever want Patricia to speak to me again) in France.  We'll get to spend a couple of days visiting my brother, sister-in-law and friends in Boston, do Europe and then fly into Newark where we will meet up with my cousin Linda and attempt to find Alex who should be in Pennsylvania or New Jersey on the Appalachian Trail by then.  We'll be back in Mexico July 5th.  We may try to blog via the iPad but... well who knows how adept we will be.  Don't worry if you don't hear from us.  I promise to do a blog posting upon our return if not before.  Take care.  Have fun.  Stay in touch.

Finally we will leave you with some photos of the village views.

One of the Angels of the village.


Sunset over the mountains.

Village mosaic

Fisherman on Lake Chapala

Architecture & color of the village

More colors of the village.