Mexican Sampler

Over the last couple of months we've taken a few trips in Mexico.  Nothing too exciting but we know you like pictures of Mexico so here we go.

Queretaro

Our trip to Queretaro was necessitated by Michael's kayak springing a leak.  The kayak guru, Rafael, lives in Queretaro so one fine morning we set off with the kayak firmly (we thought) attached to the roof of the car.  We were to meet Rafael (we thought) at the clubhouse on the reservoir for which (we thought) we had directions via our GPS.  Everything went well until we were in sight of the reservoir upon which the GPS went completely mad and then ceased to function -- as did the phone.  We were in a spider web of intersecting, convoluted highways and we found ourselves circling endlessly.  On one of our attempts to exit one highway and enter the next Michael hit the curb and the kayak rope pulled free of the bumper necessitating a stop after which I was in charge of holding the rope and hoping for the best.

In desperation we stopped at an Italian restaurant to ask directional assistance (always an iffy thing in Mexico) and in my pigeon Spanish attempted to explain our plight.  The only customer in the restaurant looked up and said in perfect English -- "Can I help you?"  His cell phone did work and so he called Rafael and found out the directions for us.  We dropped off the kayak and were surprised to find that Rafael was not there.  His plan was to meet us for dinner in the city.  But we were on the outskirts of Queretaro and our GPS wasn't working and the only place we knew how to get to was the Italian Restaurant.  So he met us there.  Now we had to get to our hotel.  The restaurant had wi-fi so Michael used it to enter the address of the hotel.  We assured Rafael we were fine and set off.  Well, you are fine with your preloaded directions until you make a wrong turn which we did as soon as we hit the historic center of the town.

Now we were flying blind.  It was dark.  It was raining a bit.  The street signs are tiny metal plaques nailed to the side of a building (ANYWHERE on the side of the building).  The traffic was fierce and the pedestrians suicidal.  We finally saw a cop pulled over at the side of the road.  I hopped out and approached the vehicle thrilled to see it was a woman and doubly thrilled when she spoke English.  I explained our problem and she said "You'll never find it.  Follow me."  So she clicked on the flashing lights, gave a couple of those weird siren sounds and took us to the doorstep of our hotel.  She then exited her car and made sure that this was the right place and put us in the hands of the concierge.
I tell this story because it exemplifies what we love about Mexico.  Yeah, a lot of cops are on the take and maybe some of them are in bed with the cartels but honestly civilians and police alike are just incredibly helpful and nice.  That's the Mexico ad for today.

Queretaro has a reservoir where the kayak club there is located. Unlike Lake Chapala I could kayak from one end to the other in 30 minutes. While kayaking I spotted these pelicans who decided not to migrate North for the summer.

There were also a number of neotropic cormorants at the reservoir.

This is Rafael in his Bangkayak with outriggers. Note his dog in the basket behind Rafael. The dog loves to go kayaking with Rafael, even at the coast with the big waves.

Things Got Better - Sort of -- For a While

Michael had been coyly suggesting that this trip provided the perfect opportunity for him to try out a new, better kayak.  It's like saying we'll go look at the puppies in the pound but we won't bring one home -- sure.  So, he is now the proud owner of a new, better kayak.  After that, we had an amazing lunch at a hacienda (photos will do) and that evening went to the Plaza to watch the world go by.  While quaffing a cold brew I looked up and noted that the sky had that certain look associated with giant deluges.  I suggested we get a move on but Michael needed to finish his beer.  Just as we left the Plaza the lightning flashed, the thunder roared and the inundation began.  We made it about 4 blocks (out of about 8) before the rain was so intense that we were forced into the lobby of a (very nice) hotel.  After about three quarters of an hour the rain let up somewhat and we decided to brave the remaining four blocks.  We made it one half of a block.  The streets were running 6-8 inches deep in water and it was running FAST.  We retreated to the hotel bar until the flood abated.

We had lunch at the Hacienda La Laborcilla, which had this beautiful flower bowl.

The tables were arranged around this pool with fountains, plants and trees.

The bar, which is only open in the evening, was not to be missed. The number of speakers indicates it is not a quiet bar.

Queretaro is one of the cleanest cities we have seen anywhere in our travels around the world. The dedicated street sweepers make sure there is no litter anywhere at any time.

One of the more interesting buildings we encountered in our explorations before the deluge.

The next day we were heading home but decided to detour to do a wine and cheese tasting.  The wine was OK but the cheese was great.  It seems everywhere we go now (well, maybe not Alaska) they are growing grapes and pushing out wine.  Some good.  Some bad.  But, face it, you have to try......

The people streaming into Bocanegra were testimony to its popularity on the "wine & cheese trail".

Some of the cheese wheels in the cave ripening.

Adventures with Kent

Our friend Kent from Austin showed up to spend a few days with us and we decided we'd take a jaunt to Morelia and Patzcuaro to show him a bit more of Mexico.  We started out in Patzcuaro which is famous for its Day of the Dead celebration that is held on an island in the middle of Lake Patzcuaro and which lasts all day and night.  But we were early by about 2 months so we didn't get to do that.  Equally, if not more ghoulish by gringo standards, was our visit to the Chapel of Santa Muerta and the associated gift shop, bar and restaurant.  A little background may help.

This sign says it all.

Red Bull has nothing over this chair.

Santa Muerta is the Saint of Death and the Catholic Church wants NOTHING to do with it.  However, the Mexican people -- long intrigued by and devoted to celebrating the dead -- have fashioned a somewhat cultish adherence to the worship of Santa Muerta.  Now, it is not mentioned in the Atlas Obscura article on her but she is a particular favorite of people who play in the cartel world--- for obvious reasons.  So, as we did a circle tour of Lake Patzcuaro we could not resist a stop in the little town of Santa Ana Chapitiro to pay a visit to Santa Muerta.

At first, the church looks like any Catholic Church from outward appearance.  But, once you take a closer look at the lintel above the entrance and step inside you know you are in for a whole different experience.  I can't exactly imagine what the typical service is like but, then again, perhaps I don't want to know.

Until the 20th century veneration of the Saint was clandestine and rites and services occurred in private homes.  Within the last 10-20 years, however, the number of believers has ballooned to several million and there are churches scattered around the country.  The shop offered numerous statues, incense for certain conditions or spells and a stuffed (real) cat.  There was a restaurant and bar in case all that veneration whetted your appetite.  There was a three day fiesta scheduled for the following weekend which we were sorely disappointed that we would miss.  The mind boggles at what might occur at a  three day Fiesta for Santa Muerta.  Maybe next year.....

These photos of the interior of the Santuario speak volumes of the cult of Santa Muerte.

This mural next to the Santuario led into all things Santa Muerta next door.

The stuffed cat which gave Deirdre quite a fright.

This depicts the 7 powers: Work, Health, Death, Forgiveness, Understanding, Luck and Loyalty and shows the prayer to achieve these.

Here is the prayer to Santa Muerte.

This is the "Ritual to give us more money."

There was even this Santa Muerte bench to grace your garden.

From there we made a stop in Santa Clara (much nicer Saint I think) del Cobre which is a small town that is dedicated to making copper objects.  Of course I bought something.  Then we went to Morelia and checked into our hotel.  This hotel is one of our favorites in the whole world.  Photos will convince you.  Then off to the Plaza.  Morelia has one of the most festive and active Plazas in all of Mexico.  There are clowns performing ( a tad creepy I know), young lovers, kids running around, old people sitting contentedly on benches, lazy dogs, strolling musician -- if it exists it will eventually show up in Morelia's Plaza.    So really, there isn't that much to tell but the photos, we hope, give you an idea of how varied, and colorful, Mexico is.

These copper doors leading to the Copper Museum show the craftsmanship of this village devoted to all things copper.

We happened to be there as they were preparing for the feast of their patron saint - - - Santa Clara. Each village is named for a saint and celebrates the saint's feast day for nine days before the actual feast day.

The hotel we stayed at in Morelia had these finches which were brought down the elevator and placed in the courtyard of the hotel. They produced a lovely background of birdsong during the day and were then retired (somewhere upstairs in the hotel) every evening.

The courtyard of the hotel was filled with festive decorations hanging from the trees.

A common theme throughout Mexico is the story of Our Lady of Guadalupe, as depicted here in this painting with an ornate frame in the hotel.

The great influence of the Catholic Church in Mexico can be seen in the ornate interiors of the churches.

Just a final thought.  When we were in Arizona I realized how culturally shifted I've become.  All the houses there were painted grey, tan, brown, greyish brown, tanish grey-- everywhere we went.  Once I realized this fact I was like:  "Michael, look.  Why doesn't someone paint their house yellow or pink or orange?  This is so BORING."  And then I remembered that when I first came to Mexico I almost got migraines as my eyes were assaulted by an orange house next to a purple house next to a bright green house next to.... you get it.  In Boston my gardens were color harmonized to sooth the eye -- not blind you.  Here my gardens look like someone blew up a paint store.  And I like it. I guess I've learned that color is as much a part of culture as cuisine.  Adios.  Have a pleasant drift into fall.

We will leave you with this photo of a foal walking along with these riders in Pátazcuaro.