Posadas, Posadas, Posadas
Come December 15th the posadas begin. This involves Mary and Joseph's search for lodging and lasts 9 nights (they say one for each month she was pregnant but I don't know... there are a lot of nine day celebrations here.) In Ajijic, the posada is a big deal and features many participants, a tuba band (of course) a donkey or two and much candy for kids. But controversy erupted in San Antonio this year -- - the little village next to ours. Their priest is quite contrary. He insists on blasting the rosary at top decibel level from the bell tower throughout the Village at an ungodly (no pun) hour of the morning. Gringos and Mexicans alike have complained. To no avail. However, he pushed it too far when he suggested that San Antonio's children "didn't need a posada" and instead should "give the money they'd spend to the church". Insurrection! The parents revolted and held the posada anyway and used the school (directly in front of the church) as the starting and ending points. Do NOT mess with the posada. While discussing this with Nancy, she said, "Oh, they should just get rid of him the way we got rid of ours." I won't venture into a discussion of the malfeasance and shoddy character traits she shared that won the last Ajijic priest the "boot". But I was surprised to learn that the villagers had signed a petition, shot it up to Guadalajara to the guy in charge and had effected a "change of venue" for the padre. Well done Villagers.
Our Very Own Posada
So, our buddy Manu decided that what we needed was a good, traditional, authentic posada. And to ensure authenticity, he brought in his Mother to officiate and ensure that things were "up to snuff". It was held in Jim's house and somewhere between 40 and 50 people were there. About half Mexican and half Gringo. It was one of the best times we've had in Mexico -- and that is saying a lot. So, here goes. I'm going to rely on the photos to tell a lot of the story so read those old captions.
To help things along, Jim had made a booklet for all the Gringos so we'd know what was happening in both English and Spanish. So, Manu's Mom is in the kitchen with huge pots brewing up Ponche. This is the traditional Christmas drink (warm) that features tejocotes ( a fruit NEVER seen in U.S.) as a base with additional fruit chopped and inserted. You get a spoon with it. You can have it plain or (guess what?) you can have it with TEQUILA. Excellent.
After fortifying ourselves with drink (but not too much) candles are lit and everyone holds one. Then the Rosary is said (Manu's brother Daniel and Mom led this part).
Now, during all the early festivity, the three piece band showed up and began playing rollicking, traditional music. After the Rosary (still holding candles) we split into two groups. One group followed the band outside the gate of the house while the other half remained inside. From there it is into call and response mode with Joseph and Mary singing outside to ask for lodging and the Innkeepers on the other side questioning them or denying entry. Eventually they are allowed in.
OK. So now half of us have exited Jim's yard and have created a huge amount of noise and singing in the street. The reaction? The neighbors open their doors, pull out the lawn chairs and enjoy the entertainment. Cars headed down the street see the mob and detour (mostly). So Mexico.
With Joseph and Mary settled, we can now focus on food and fun. Manu found someone who made Oaxacan tamales. They were wrapped in banana leaves and very different from most that you find around here -- and delicious. So, the band is playing and everyone is eating and drinking and speaking varying levels of Spanglish. There are many children, including Manu's and Paco's family's offspring, yet no crying, screaming or running. But they are getting psyched for the candy.
There is dancing. We are astounded to see a fifteen year old boy dancing with his mother and then his twelve year old sister and ENJOYING it. Not the norm in the U.S.A. for sure.
After the tamales, the band edges closer as Manu walks out from inside and they strike up Las Mañanitas--which is the Mexican birthday song. Everyone had pretended that they forgot Manu's birthday and now all let loose. Additional calories are supplied as the tres leches cake is passed around. But, with barely a break in the action, it is time for the piñatas.
In the States people hang them up, give people a stick, blindfold them and let them whack it. This is forgetting an integral part of the event. You have to keep yanking on the rope to move it so that it is much harder to strike the piñata. So. Back to the street where they have strung a rope from Jim's house across the street (why not?) to the neighbor's post. One guy has climbed the post and Paco is in the bed of a pickup truck that has been strategically positioned beneath the rope. They will be yanking the piñata. First up are the little ones who show a good ability to connect but lack the requisite strength (these Mexican piñatas are really tough) to break it open. Everybody gets a whack (so to speak) including our 80+ year old friend Ramona and yours truly. I rip the blindfold off when I realize I am about to hurl myself upon the cobblestones while thrashing wildly but nobody gets mad at my breaking the rules. I fail anyway. When it is finally broken open the candies fall to the street as do all the children and miraculously no one is seriously harmed. A second piñata is brought out.....
We rest up after that and eat buñuelos which are these delicious sweets that are cookie-like with cinnamon and sugar (in culture after culture an unbeatable combination). A bit more music and libation and then it is time for the bolos. As each child (or person I think) leaves, the host provides a bolo which is like a conical bag containing sweets and nuts. It was just a great time. Thanks, guys.
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| A pristine piñata prior to it's brutal demise |
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| The seven points allegedly symbolize the seven deadly sins. |
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| Mary and Carolyn follow along as Jim explains the goings on of the posada. |
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| And the band plays on.... |
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| Manu shows amazing dexterity in balancing both the Holy Family and a candle. |
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| Manu's Mom made sure everything proceeded in authentic fashion. |
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| Outside the gates, one half of the posada implores the inn keepers to accept Mary and Joseph. |
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| Gringos gamely sang along in Spanish (well, except these Gringos) |
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| Jim, whose property may someday be restored to its pre-posada glory. |
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| Tres leches (three milks) cake is delicious. REALLY delicious. |
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| A sighting of a rare teenage dancer enjoying a turn on the floor with his mother. |
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| Paco yanks the piñata. Experienced whackers feel for the rope before trying to connect with the piñata. |
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| Young Logan managed to whack one piece off (on street) |
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| Ron had his turn....nope. |
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| Success! |
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| "Oh, no you don't. Not all that candy at once. Hand it over right now young man." |
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| Piñata #2 |
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| The sign says No Parking (Estacionarse) not No Eating. |
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| Ramona gives it a whack. |
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| Note the guy on the neighbor's wall -- no problem. Mi casa es su casa. Actually, maybe it was his casa. |
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| Remember sparklers when you were a kid? Mexican sparklers are on steroids. Kids fence with them. It is scary. |
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| Buñuelos - Cinnamon and sugar heaven |
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| Ron and another guest dancing to the band. |
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| Yeah. Finally. I got my bolo! |
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| Manu's Mom, Brothers, Sister-In-Law and nieces. Thanks you guys. |
The Mother of All Posadas
This posada has been taking place, first in Guadalajara and then in La Floresta, for over a hundred years. Carmen Robles' great grandmother started it and the 125 year old Christ Child figure that is the symbol of the posada, along with the responsibility for conducting it, has been passed from generation to generation ever since. Before the nine day posada ends on Christmas Eve over 3,500 people will have passed through the Robles' gates -- praying, singing and receiving gifts. People from over 20 villages (largely poor, elderly or in some way needy) flock to the posada filling the streets with cars and people. All year long, the family collects used clothing, blankets and donations so that they can help to meet the needs of those who come to the posada. Every night each participant receives a bolo of treats and on Christmas Eve the give away of clothing and warm blankets takes place. We dropped by on our way from the synagogue (next topic) just to see where the posada house was. We stopped and Michael hopped out to take a picture. A member of the family came out and very graciously invited us to come back later to be part of the celebration. Great family.
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| This is the posada house in La Floresta. They have wonderful Chinese lanterns lit in the evening. |
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| The entire extended family pitches in to make bolos, decorate and organize the items for the give away. |
Please, More Latkes and Herring Sir, Please!
I REALLY miss Rein's Deli. It is off Route I-84 near Hartford and on any road trip in that direction we would time our trip to hit this deli-- which was phenomenal. Chopped chicken liver, herring, latkes, and the best pickles IN THE WORLD. There is not much of any of that in Ajijic because very few people of Aztec heritage happen to be Jewish. So, imagine my unbridled excitement when Patti and Avrum invited us to the Chanukah party at the local temple. And it was the fulfillment of all my kosher cravings. I may never eat again (odds are against it). Good conversation. More than one friend coming up and saying: "I never realized you were Jewish." I would LIKE to say that our primary motive in attending was religious, but well, no. However, their resident scholar gave an excellent short talk about the Maccabees and the rise of Rome, imminent fall of Greece (not now, the first time) and pressure of the Persians that allowed the Maccabees to win. The whole oil thing was secondary and provided a religious reason to validate the Holiday. We played Bingo while everyone made nursing home jokes.
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| There is a vibrant Jewish community in Ajijic/Chapala. Note bingo cage in front of Menorah. |
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| If you look carefully, you'll see the pot hanger in the kitchen is in the shape of the Star of David. Cool, huh? |
Darn -- It's Not in Outer Space AGAIN!
The final event in the run up to Christmas is the Live Nativity Scenes held in the courtyard of the church in the Village each Christmas Eve. We wandered up after Christmas Eve dinner in a local eatery and took it all in. It was smaller and less elaborate than the last one we saw but still charming. We think they do better when they vary the theme a bit. True, you always need the main characters but one year they did it with the theme of Nativity Around the World. You had to get past the basic issue that it REALLY happened in the Holy Land but, once free of that mental stricture, we were able to enjoy scenes set in Africa (snakes dangling over Baby Jesus), China (big wall in background) etc. We remain profoundly disappointed that we missed the year that featured the Nativity in Outer Space -- and hope that maybe next year will be the year for that theme to return. Or maybe Nativity Under the Sea -- that has possibilities.
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| They made a carpet of wood shavings and flower petals in front of the church steps. |
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| Many of the Holidays feature these "carpets" which are done in most cases free hand. |
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| The Noche Buenas grow to heights of 15 or 20 feet here with giant blossoms -- like volley ball size. |
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| Almost all of the scenes had a live Baby Jesus -- and they behaved. |
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| Well, this one was a little antsy.... |
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| When the kids saw Michael's camera they ran to get their..... well, what ever they are.. |
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| And there is another what ever it is -- but very colorful. |
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| Nope. Not a real Baby Jesus. But real goats. |
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| That's kind of a hacienda oriented Nativity. Real Baby Jesus. |
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| I think they cut arches out of the Great Wall of China backdrop from a couple of years ago. |
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| More ..... |
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| Lake Chapala themed. Joseph looks a little old..... |
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| Decorations on the Plaza |
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| The had really cool ornaments strung around the Plaza |
The Big Day Dawns
We had a very laid back Christmas. Alex took over the kitchen and whipped up Prime Rib, mashed potatoes and squash bombs (delicious-- but a long story) along with salad and other sides. Then, bloated and content, we retreated to watch the fake logs burn and the candles flicker beside the Christmas Tree constructed from the bloom of a Century Plant. A tad unconventional by New England Standards but very satisfying. We hope that your Christmas was merry, bright and fun as well. So, the sons head back to their respective coasts tomorrow and the Village enjoys a six day cessation of noise and celebration prior to Three Kings Day and the run up to Mardi Gras. We'll keep you posted.
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| It was a frigid 62 degrees outside so we dined in. |
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| I know. It's a little odd. But it was a great Christmas. Happy 2015! |
