Monday, December 26, 2022

The Divine Day of the Dead

This One's for you Linda...

My cousin Linda was all psyched to come down with her daughter Kelly to immerse themselves totally in the Day of the Dead. However, the U.S. Passport Agency and the State of New Jersey Bureau of Records had other plans and thus they had to cancel.  So, as a consolation prize we are going to include a brief blog on the Day of the Dead for all of your viewing pleasure.

Picture (If you can and you probably can't) American Kids Doing This

Our first stop was the Malecon in Chapala where high school students were busily constructing alters to honor the Dead.  Each year there is a contest with a theme as to whom the alters are honoring.  One year it was environmentalists that were killed by cartels (long story -- has to do with illegal logging and animal trade),  This year it honored Mexican feminists.  I don't believe any of them were killed by cartels.  So, there they all were.  Maybe 150 to 200 high school kids totally concentrated on creating these very elaborate altars each honoring their favorite feminist.  The carpets and designs on them are created out of flower petals using stencils and a great deal of patience.  They have 6 hours to create them and then the judging occurs.  At five o'clock the finished products are displayed and at sundown each alter is lit by candles creating an amazing street scene.

The care, time and attention devoted to creating the altars is quite astounding, as can be seen in these photos.

This includes the items that are made specifically for the altars.








These two photos show how stencils are used to create the intricate patterns and words on the altars.


Catrinas also decorate the area around the altars.


Some of the young people are made up as living Catrina & Catrin.


This is the Pan de los Muertos made for Dia de los Muertos. It is a form of pan dulce (sweet bread).



This Catrina is very modern as she clutches her cell phone (perhaps to better communicate with the dead).

This individual is getting his Catrin makeup.



Next Stop:  The Cemetery of Course

Mmid afternoon we decided to stop by the Ajijic Panteon.  For a couple of days we would pass people as we were driving who would be carrying giant wreaths of flowers or bouquets or both walking in the direction of the cemetery.  By the afternoon of November 2 you couldn't park within 1,000 feet of the panteon (cemetery).  Outside the gates food vendors were set up complete with tables and chairs and large expanses of marigolds (the official Day of the Dead flower) were spread out to be bought and placed on the graves.
Inside the gates Mariachi band members were gathering having been summoned by families to serenade their loved ones.

In Mexico death is regarded as merely another phase of life and is not as feared as it is in some other parts of the world.  While they don't believe in reincarnation, they do believe that on the days of Nov. 1 and 2 the veil between the worlds of the living and the dead are in the closest proximity.  As they say,"the veil is thinnest at this time and it is possible to reach out to your departed family members."  So, entire families will bring or buy food and sit at the grave (sometimes with the food balanced on the crypt) and eat and chat with the deceased.  

These photos show how colorfully the panteon is decorated for Dia de los Muertos.














Finally, We Made Atlas Obscura!

Devoted blog readers will be familiar with the Atlas Obscura which is a website (and book) that lists off beat, interesting and sometimes just really strange events, locations, museums etc. around the world.  Two of my favorites were the Froggy Museum in Split and the Museum of Broken Relationships in Zagreb.  Well, it was only a matter of time until Ajijic scored and entry... and we have arrived.  A local artist, Efren Gonzalez created an entire wall of death masks (you could purchase your very own mask & our friends Allan and Barbara did).  These masks were affixed to the outer wall of a primary school -- a tad macabre-- and are lit every year at the Day of the Dead. It is just the kind of thing the Atlas Obscura loves and thus our entry made the cut.  Michael will include a photo.
These two photos show just a portion of the skull wall.





Due to Michael's having a terrible cold we had to bail on the evening activities at the Plaza and the nighttime parade but (God willing) there is always next year.  And hopefully next year Linda, Kelly and all our other friends who want to indulge in the Day of the Dead will be able to visit with us.