Christmas is Over! Let Mardi Gras Begin!

Candlemas y Mas

So, Ramona got the Baby Jesus figure in the Rosca cake at the Three Kings Party (January 6th) and was thus obligated to provide a tamale party on Candlemas which is celebrated on February 2nd and brings to a close (at last!) the Christmas season.  In order for the finale to occur, Baby Jesus must be outfitted with a new set of clothes and taken to a church (churches if you are zealous) and blessed.   He then takes part in the Candlemas party.  And finally, He joins his family et al. in the creche until the next Holiday season.  Mexican holiday traditions are nothing if not extensive, intricate and party laden.

Well, Ramona did a fine job for a gringa who had no idea where to buy baby Jesus clothes and who is not known for frequenting churches.  She DOES know how to procure delicious tamales and musicians though.  The party was held at Jim's house.  Making it more interesting, Jim's entire house was in chaos as he had felt an immense and immediate urge to paint the entire thing a la Mexico (let's talk vivid). Furniture was stacked, drop clothes dropped and men were actually painting the living room as the party  commenced. Adding to the excitement was the arrival of a cold front and rain in our routinely rainless dry season.  None of this fazed anyone.  For reasons somewhat vague (something to do with sacrificing lambs I think) Ramona had purchased a baby bunny (adorable) which went home with young Frida -- to her delight and with her mother's forbearance.  So, a typical Lakeside evening was enjoyed by all.

Two musicians provided some entertainment for the party.

Ramona with the baby Jesus.

Ramona had some special clothes made for the baby Jesus.

Manu with the baby rabbit Ramona brought to the party.

Frida, the lucky recipient of the baby rabbit.

Viva Mexico or C'mon ANOTHER Fund Raiser?

Yes, yes, another.  But this is the Lake Chapala Society big one.  And the money goes to provide aid for Mexican students which is a really good thing.  My favorite part was the fashion show which is wildly out of character for me.  But it is such fun (in a perverse way) to watch geriatric men watch really stunning, sultry young women. Astoundingly, no one had to slap the paddles on any of them to revive them from cardiac arrest.  The food was ridiculously good and vast.

Jim, Manu & Paco watching the entertainment at Viva Mexico.

A ballet folclorico provided some of the entertainment, as seen in these three photos.

The fashion show was definitely a big hit, ...

with stunning models, ...

 in some very interesting ensembles

such as this one with the Frida Kahlo purse.

There were even male models sporting some flashy attire.

In this next series of photos, ...

the apparel for the head ....

garnered as much attention, ...

if not more, ...

than the outfits themselves.

The clothes showed a definite Mexican flair, ...

especially when the sombrero is added as an accessory, ...

to complement the clothes.

The Onslaught of Mardi Gras 

Many cities and countries celebrate Mardi Gras.  But most do not do it for almost four weeks.  Here in Ajijic once we get old San Sebastian out of the way in mid January we flip right over into pre-Mardi Gras festivities.  The Sayacas make their first appearance with San Sebastian and once SS (as he is affectionately known) slumbers in the Rosario Chapel for the year, the Sayacas keep showing up each weekend for a raucous prance around town, followed by a tussle between young boys and bulls, followed by a big tequila infused party down at the Malecon.  Every week.  For at least four weeks. Then, and only then, are we ready for Mardi Gras.  The first parade begins around 10AM -- well, closer to 11 but who cares.  And no one cares because Tom's Bar has been open since 9AM dispensing margaritas and Bloody Marys in profusion.  While the Sayacas have been hurling flour around for weeks, now they pull out all the stops for the Mardi Gras parade.  Actually, everybody is throwing flour.  People on floats, Sayacas, pedestrians....everyone.  It is quite messy.  The pictures tell the tale.  After covering about 10-12 blocks the parade ends up at the Plaza and the Sayacas continue to chase people throwing flour in all directions while the tuba bands take up the Gazebo and everyone dances manically.  Then, it is time to move on to the Malecon for one more mega party prior to moving on to the Bull Ring for yet another party and dance.  But, concurrently, Gossip's Kitchen has closed down the street next to their restaurant for their annual Mardi Gras dinner/party/dance which they are entitled to do because they are a Cajun restaurant -- or so they maintain.  Then, at some point in the evening all the floats, horsemen, Sayacas etc. are reassembled and they do the parade ALL OVER AGAIN.  Except they have now been partying for about twelve hours so floats take wrong turns, Sayacas keel over and sleep on curbs and an occasional float participant falls into the crowd.  It is quite diverting.  And then it is over.  Lent is here.  People spend the first two weeks recovering from Mardi Gras and the next two weeks building sets for the elaborate Passion Play which will be the lynchpin of the Easter Celebration.  Which will be another story.

While waiting for the parade to start, this car drove by on its way to the start of the parade. One wonders who is driving and how they can see.

An entrepreneurial Mexican woman selling cotton candy before the parade begins.

This year the roof of Tom's Bar became a prime spot to view the festivities.

The sayacas play an important role, liberally dousing all with flour, ...

as can be seen here.

At times the flour was so thick, it looks like smoke drifting through the air.

The creativity shown in the sayaca costumes can be seen in this next series of photos.

And no parade on Ajijic is complete without the charros, as can be seen in this series.

Giant figures towering over all were also part of the parade.

The beauty queens seen earlier toss candy to the parade watchers.

Note the giant bags of flour, because you wouldn't want to run out.

The floats are varied, ...

and the participants love to show off for the crowds, ...

while liberally imbibing and ...

exhibiting a variety of costumes, with less rather than more.

No one escapes the sayacas, but a bloody mary helps clear the throat.

Even our friend, Fred,  is displaying a coating of flour.

Not sure if Belleza Consti is male or female - ah, who cares?

Medussa is very big here.  Not sure why.

Of course there were Romans

Maybe it isn't Medusa -- but it has fangs!

Fancy Pants

It really was fun.  Messy fun.

Enjoyed by many

Phil wins the flour contest

No, Damien, our gardener wins

Mardi Gras street party with bands next to Gossip's Kitchen (good Cajun food)

Just So You Know It Isn't Just Ajijic That Is "Quirky"

We found this in the N.Y. Times:

Even amid the inexhaustible tally of quirky rituals that communities anywhere hold dear, the Fat Tuesday frenzy in San Juan de la Vega (Mexico) elicits awe.
Hundreds of boys and young men gathered again here on Tuesday to affix fist-sized balls of homemade explosives, containing a mixture of potassium chlorate (used in matches and fireworks) and sulfur, to the heads of sledge hammers. They then slammed the rigged tools on iron rails and rocks.
The result: Deafening, smoky and potentially fatal blasts. By noon, about a dozen people were slightly injured.
“It’s all about whose [explosion] is bigger,” said Heriberto Medrano, a 17-year-old day laborer, taking a break from the action to have a soda and evaluate the burns he suffered on his arms and chest.
See?  We're normal.

You Say Goodbye and I Say Hello

Well our friends Betsy and Fred have spent five weeks here and are about to turn over the keys to Ginny and Gary who arrived a week ago for another five weeks.  Everywhere we turn there are friends of friends who have fled the horrors of winter to catch a little break in Ajijic.  Alex's Mom arrived for the first time and immediately "got" the place-- dancing with Sayacas and savoring the wackiness.  Not to be the chamber of commerce, but this town is just different.  Concurrently we have the Northern Lights Classical Music Festival, the Jewish Film Festival, the crazy Mardi Gras events, Lorna Luft concert tonight, the community theatre is doing Night of the Iguana and visual art is just everywhere. So, if you are currently under 6-7 feet of snow and sub zero temperatures give a thought to coming to see us.  We'd love it.  Until next time.