She's Back! The Virgin Returns

 Now for those of you who are playing catch up, you'll need to go back to a blog written about this time last year when we first discovered the Virgin of Zapopan and her pivotal role in maintaining Lake water levels.  If I've lost you already you REALLY need to go back to get the gist.  Briefly, what this involves is that the Virgin comes to Chapala from Guadalajara and spends the summer at the Lake moving from Village to Village to insure that the rains come in adequate measure.  She arrived Sunday July 14th and did she ever do it in style!  This marked the 4th anniversary of her coronation as La Reina del Lago (Damn! We missed that).  For four centuries she has been Jalisco's principal religious patroness and protector against strife, plagues and natural disasters.

Well, we really need her this year.  Thus far in July (according to Wes) we've only gotten a little over 9" while we usually have 25".  Conversely, Guadalajara has gotten 25" while they normally get 9-10".  This has resulted in horrible flooding in the city and a bunch of grumpy people at Lakeside.  Nobody is happy.  She better get with the program and rectify the situation.

This blog will be long on pictures and short on verbiage because well... you'll see.  Just to set the stage, the procession welcoming the Virgin goes on for about one half of a mile.  The street is covered with alfalfa bordered by crushed marigold petals (I think).  This year the theme of green and gold was dedicated to Pope Francis' trip to Brazil (think gold/green flag).  Upon this carpet parades, dances, prances and bounces the most amazing and outrageous entourage you could imagine.  Of course, the culmination is the appearance of the Virgin,  herself, ensconced on a float.

Michael and I only stayed for the parade but the extent of celebration is impressive.  After the parade there is a huge Mass.  There is an overnight Vigil.  The next morning she is escorted to the pier and loaded on a panga and sailed over to Scorpion Island (poor branding with that name) where there is yet another Mass.  After that, I get a little vague.  After some time period, she moves along to San Antonio, Ajijic, etc. etc.  We'll keep you posted on that.

The parade begins with one of the 20 troupes of costumed ritual indigenous dancers carrying their banner.

The parade route is lined periodically with these flower adorned gateways through which the parade passes.

The dancers beside the alfalfa & marigold decorated street.

The ritual dancers ranged from the very young...

to the very old.

The dancers wear these hinged metal-soled shoes as they dance on the cobblestones, which makes for an interesting sound as they dance along the parade route.

Like Father, like Son & even the baby joins the parade to welcome the Virgen de Zapopan.

The ritual dancers carry copal incense as another strums his instrument.

The costumes and headdresses of the dancers are very unique.

Costumed characters representing the devil carry whips.

One of the many unique masks & the hair is quite something as well.

The effect is not complete until one sees the complete costume of this representation of the devil.

Note the bow & arrow of one of the ritual dancers & the bright red hair of another.

Occasionally the sound of the whips cracking reverberated along the parade route.

This group of Apaches were among the ritual dancers.

Even a gorilla was among the participants.

Families marched & families watched the unfolding spectacle.

Even some seminarians joined the parade with the ritual dancers.

This particular group included a conch shell blowing blonde with a very colorful headdress.

Drums were also part of the parade. Note the opening at the bottom of this drum. A small fire is placed at the bottom of the drum to tighten the skin.

After you thought you saw an impressive headdress...

another would come along that was even more impressive.

Some headdresses were more minimalist...

while others were more ornate & colorful.

The young sound the conch as well.

When the drums pound & the ritual dancers move....

there is a riot of colors and feathers.

This three drum combo was wheeled along the parade route.

One of the drummers converses with one of the characters in the parade.

The percussion from these three drums could be felt throughout your body...

but it inspired the ritual dancers.

Another example of a colorful costume & headdress...

and yet some others.

The ritual dancers then lined the parade route...

while boys representing the Franciscan missionaries marched by...

followed by the band...

followed by a young female honor guard...

followed by a young male honor guard.

A banner depicting the "Virgen" is carried by the honor guard.

No parade in Jalisco is complete without the mariachis....

and even more mariachis.

Finally the moment we have waited for...

the arrival of the Virgen de Zapopan on her majestic float.

The diminutive figure of the Virgin of Expectation Mary aka Virgen de Zapopan. 

All too quickly after a brief glimpse...

the Virgen passes...

followed by Cardinal Jose Francisco Robles blessing the people along the parade route.

But it doesn't end there, because now the young charros arrive....

followed by the well trained dancing horses of the older charros...

and yet another masked & feathered character.

This creative individual couldn't afford a real horse, so he improvised.

If you thought the earlier headdresses were impressive...

these were absolutely amazing!

I don't know how they can wear these headdresses for as long as they do, but obviously this individual needed a rest.

Our lives continue to be really busy and we just keep meeting more and more interesting people.  In the last few weeks we've met a Baron and Baroness, a French designer who did Bruce Springsteen's house and redid a Frank Lloyd Wright house in Pasadena, and just a whole lot of other folks who end up here in unusual ways with interesting and sometimes dubious backgrounds.  Just on Sunday we had a breakfast with Ed and Ramon where Ramon made these amazing tiny little tortilla things (from Scratch!) with black beans and meat and salsa and numerous other delicious elements.  We then did the parade.  We then decided we needed to experience Mud Fest.  Mud Fest involves approximately half the male population between the ages of 15 and 30 gathering up their ATVs, motorcycles and off road vehicles and racing them in the mud flats of the Lake (I TOLD you she was not doing her job).  While the Virgin was extremely popular and there were hundreds, if not thousands on hand, the Mud Fest was more popular.  We couldn't even get near it.  Not even in the line to get near it.  Go figure.  Next year, we'll go early.  Then it was off to Robert and Luis' for Luis' birthday party which was a blast.  And then dinner with some other fun friends.

So then, we had an appointment with our Doctor on Monday.  By Tuesday Michael was in the hospital and now by Wednesday we are back home and all is well.  See, busy.  We want you to enjoy all the photos and wish you could all experience this with us (well, maybe not the hospital part).  Anyway, as soon as we get this up we will start on a Special Edition entitled:  Mikey Goes to the Hospital.  Stand by.

July 4th Potluck

No.  It's not about a potluck.  Well a little bit.  But mostly this is just going to be a little bit of this and a little bit of that -- kind of like a potluck but less edible.

Death in the Village

When you live in a town populated disproportionately by geriatrics you kind of get used to the fact that folks die a lot.  However, I thought it might be interesting to explore how people "go out" here.  Nobody has a funerally funeral.  This is because they either have to "ship you out" to the States or Canada within 48 hours (good luck) or cremate you.  So, there are lots of memorial services or maybe nothing at all (a surprisingly large percentage).  And then there is Jeanne Chaussee. She passed away a couple of weeks ago.  In keeping with the motif here, she was a character.  Outspoken, funny, a mentor to local artists, journalist for the Guadalajara Reporter --she was a force within the village.  And she went out with a bang.  Word went out that there would be a fiesta in the Plaza.  It featured the Ballet Folclorico, Dancing Horses,  potluck eats, a performance by Los Cantantes (singing group) and Little Theatre, numerous eulogies and a Marimba band.  Jeanne arrived (well her ashes did) along with her daughters in an open horse drawn carriage in a loud parade accompanied by Charros, the "Mayor" of the village on a dancing horse, a tuba band and a sayaca (see previous blogs).  Quite the event.  In Mexico, things just happen.  No permits, nary a no parking sign, no official nothing. In fact, the other day I was traversing the village and saw that one street was completely blocked to traffic.  I meandered up and saw that a large tent (like caterers use) was spread sidewalk to sidewalk.  The tent bore the name of a funeral company.  Most of the houses are small here so, when there is a death, the family just arranges to have a tent set up in the street to host those paying their respects.  Everybody just goes down a different street.  No big deal.

Jeanne (or at least her ashes) arriving for her memorial service in true Ajijic style.

Note the sayaca in the second row in back,...

followed by the band...

and the charros.

A charro demonstrating his horsemanship. Kids don't try this at home!

Most of the people gathered for the memorial service look on as Jeanne arrives.  Some just pet their dogs.

One stylish gentlemen even dressed for the memorial service.

The band stand in the plaza was decorated and speakers were set up for the speakers & the band.

Even the Shriners came out to honor Jeanne.

The sayaca greets a gringa...

and dances with another gringa who poses for pictures with the sayaca. 

And Now A Happier Note

While not wanting to be weird or sappy about our pet, Michael and I feel compelled to congratulate Siam on her 19th birthday today.  She found us when she was a kitten in frigid weather, in knee deep snow in an Audubon Sanctuary and her life has been gravy ever since.  She celebrated the day by racing through the den, around the piano, into her kitty camo carrier, back out and up on to the couch to await her morning pets.  She does this every few days and then sleeps for 18 hours.  Our sources vary as to her equivalent human age but the consensus is 92 years old.  The Purina Chart only GOES to 19 years.  Oh my.  Well, the oldest cat on record, Creme Puff, lived to be 38 years and 3 days old.  She's halfway there.

Siam celebrates her birthday in true Mexican fashion.

A Week in the Life

Several of our faithful readers have asked: "Yeah, but what do you do in an average week?" No week is average but here's this one.

Sunday:  Awake to drumming that make me think I've landed in Africa. But it's the Maize Festival.  No--its not--read on.  I think it's going to be indigenous people worshipping corn.  It's a protest against Monsanto and GMO.  Both Mexican National and expats participate.  Go to Open Circle.  You know the ubber lefty/secular Sunday variant of church.  Listen to a talk by a guy who is a novelist/scriptwriter about Cesar Chavez, Mexican immigration and Ajijic as a refuge for WWII displaced persons.  Friends come over and their dogs go swimming.  They bring spaghetti and meatballs. Delicious.

Protest against GMO. Photo Credit to Deirdre.

Monday:  Go to Monday Market and get stuff so I barely cook.  Excellent approach.  Work at Love In Action with the four to six year olds all afternoon.  Go for drinks/dinner with some friends at their new house. Meet another couple who are very fun and interesting.

Tuesday:  Do some grocery shopping and run some errands.  In the afternoon go to Lake Chapala Society to celebrate CanAm Day.  Since Canada Day is July 1 and we have July 4th they split the difference and do one Holiday deal.  Very fun.  Everybody mingles -- Americans, Canadians, Mexicans.  Confab with a friend to begin planning a trip to Oaxaca in September.

Local children singing at Can Am day celebration at LCS.

Wednesday:  Tianguis (open air market) day.  Go and buy flowers and can't resist a spectacularly awful keychain featuring a scorpion encased in glass as a present for Andre whose surprise birthday party in Saturday.  Go to the graduation party for Nancy's  (who helps us with the house) son, Jose, who is 12 and leaving Primary School.  It is held at the Bull Ring and I have to speak Spanish for one and a half hours.  I am fatigued. Drive to Chapala to a friend's house where we meet with Ryan who is bilingual for our one hour conversation class.  I am REALLY fatigued.

From the left Nancy's mother, sister, son and Nancy.

Thursday:  Run errands and discover we are almost out of gas.  Rarely fill tank here.  Democrats Abroad Pool Party in afternoon.  The scent of weed is in the air.  When commented upon the reply is: "oh that's all those Colorado and Washington folks".  Breakfast Club at Adelita's for dinner in evening.

Friday:  Thought it would be a day off.  Nothing planned.  But Michael's knee has been giving him trouble so he emailed Doc on Thursday afternoon.  Call back that night and we're off to Cruz Roja (Red Cross) for x-rays in AM.  Takes 20 minutes. Costs 300 pesos (about $23).  Appointment with Doc at 2:30.  Thought about having Michael teach me more about our finances on the computer.  Put it off... again.

Saturday:  Have to buy more Rotisserie Chicken at Chicken place. Cat refuses to eat anything else.  Afternoon party at a friend's house who is in Michael's kayak club.  A Potluck -- there it IS again.  It rains during the party.  It NEVER rains during the day. But there is a hurricane off the coast. Everyone is pleased by this and the party moves inside.  First time we look forward to a hurricane but the Lake needs the rain.  Surprise birthday party with a bunch of friends at Viva Mexico.  The new chef serenades us.  The guy is incredible.  Should be at the Met.  Really.  Off to Chac-Lan for drinks overlooking the lake.  That wraps the week.

Dancing at the Kayak Club Party

Roland & Andre at Andre's birthday celebration at Viva Mexico.

The singing chef at Viva Mexico.

A Rave Comes to Ajijic

Well, what I thought was indigenous drumming last Sunday morning turned out to be the "frenzied, non-stop, cacophony of a full blown rave" which, unbeknownst to us, took place from Saturday afternoon to Sunday morning at the far west end of town.  Far.  Like a mile and a half.  And we could hear it clearly.  But not as clearly as some.  According to the Guad Reporter "1,500 young rockers from Guadalajara were in attendance at the Tribe Festival Rave Party".  This resulted in "at least three Mexican residents having to seek medical treatment for anxiety-related illnesses".  All the Gringos were too old and deaf to notice.  Or as one said, "Hey, it wasn't Woodstock".  How did this occur in our sweet, quiet little village?  Just like all things in Mexico.  After extensive investigation, the paper determined that the Chapala Mayor Huerta "after being put between a rock and a hard place by an individual known for close political connections to upper spheres of Jalisco's PRI government" caved and gave permission.  But not in Chapala...no,no, no.  He said go to Ajijic.  And you thought we lived in a retirement village.  Hah!  Rumor has it there is a second one planned.  We'll see.  If it happens, we're all over it and will report in depth.

About the Malecon

We finally went to see the Jocotopec  Malecon.  Ajijic, San Antonio, Chapala and Jocotopec all have them.  They are promenades along the Lake.  The ultimate goal is to join them all together along the lakeside to form a 20 mile or so long pathway.  They are fun and form another gathering spot for the villages in addition to their plazas.

The entrance to the malecon features fanciful ceramic fish sculptures.

The sculptures and statues throughout the malecon and the adjoining park pay tribute to the original inhabitants of the area.

We are still trying to figure out who this fanciful statue represents.

Most of the sculptures seem to have lost their body...

and only the head remains.

Finally a stature with head & body, but the hand seems to be missing. 

The many statues & sculptures make the walk along the malecon interesting & entertaining.

The park by the malecon even has barbecue stations set up for families to come and enjoy this outdoor space.

With the arrival of rainy season & the greening of the landscape, cows graze by the malecon in front of the lake.

The malecon even has an exercise area with sturdy equipment for the public to use.

That's it for now.  Less than a month until we head North.  Take care.