Bacalar - Before it All Went to Hell in a Hand Basket

Explanatory Note:

We went to Bacalar at the end of January before the pandemic became a reality to Americans.  We had a lovely time but then got overtaken by pandemic craziness and a trip to the States (THAT was interesting) to get Michael's knee replaced.  We've made it back across the border and are cocooned in our abode above the lake.  Even though we  can't complain about our imprisonment we do.  We bet you do too.  So we thought we'd send out the Bacalar blog, albeit tardily, because it might cheer you up.  Just look at the pictures and it will reassure you that there is still a world beyond your four walls..  And one day, when this is all over, you could go there.

Shhhh. Damn it New York Times.  Don't Tell...

There I was, lounging in my mismatched PJs, sipping on my second cup of java when a headline leapt out at me from the NY Times. No, not the usual suicide inducing Impeachment drivel or the slowly emerging terror of corona virus.  Far worse.  The headline read:  "Bacalar, the next Tulum?"

So, let me explain.  Tulum was an idyllic laid-back, azure, cenote dotted haven on the Yucatan peninsula about 20 years ago.  We first went there in 2004 when our sons were 15 and 17 and it was truly gorgeous.  You could just drive up to semi-unearthed Mayan ruins and climb the pyramids.  You could find a cenote and dive in.  To explain.  The Yucatan benefits from a huge system of underground rivers with crystal clear water.  These rivers run under the limestone which blankets the area.  Limestone is soft.  Sometimes the current of the water wears away the limestone and the surface collapses creating this marvelous swimming hole  -- some with caves and tunnels which I find entirely too creepy to enter.  Phobia #1. But the open ones are terrific.

When we went through Cancun in '04 it was already a lost cause filled with mega chain hotels, package tours and many, many drunks of all sizes, nationalities and ages.  We based in Playa Del Carmen which was then a sleepy mid-sized town.  Last year we returned to the Yucatan with our friends Gary and Ginny and were appalled by the development that had afflicted (and I DO mean afflicted) the coast from Cancun to Tulum.

Having witnessed the carnage of Tulum I raced to find Michael and waved my iPad article before his eyes.  "We've got to go.  We've got to go NOW! It's in The Times.  It's months away from being overrun and destroyed" I pleaded.  I explained to him that Bacalar was a couple of hours south of Tulum and on the Belize border.  Bacalar sits on a lagoon called the Lagoon of Seven Colors which is actually a series of collapsed cenotes running 21 km long and 1 km wide.  The different blues are caused by the differing depths and angle of the sun.

Beating The Rush

Michael agreed that this was a serious issue and that we needed to scope this place out before the hoards arrived.  Luckily we could catch a flight (unluckily on Volaris) to Chetumal and be there in less than 2 hours. We got our rental car and a half hour later were at Casa Bakal checking in.

It REALLY is like the Tulum of old.  No giant hotel complexes.  Lots of small guest houses and hotelitos.  Also a lot of hostels and backpackers.  Checking in we realized that (once again) we appeared to be the oldest guests by several decades.  Nathan, our desk clerk/concierge urged us to avoid the more commercial boat tours of the lagoon in that "they are filled with young, drunk punks who don't show reverence for the lagoon.  You'll be more comfortable on our sailboat."  Well, he was right even if somewhat presumptuous that we didn't like hanging with young, drunk punks.

Are the Searles Capable of Relaxation?

Whenever we travel we vow that we'll adhere to a light schedule and relax a bit.  We never do.  There is always something intriguing lurking around the corner.  We appear to be highly reactive to any form of stimuli. Bacalar is the solution to this compulsion.  It is beautiful.  It has good restaurants. It has one fort and a small museum.  That is IT.  So, within a day we were rolling out of bed late.  Lingering over breakfast.  We'd amble out on the dock to the hammocks or chairs to drink a second cup of coffee and watch the sun shift. Michael would kayak.  I would read in the pool. We would eat.  We would read.  We would swim.  We would repeat the next day.  We did this for four days and really enjoyed it.  More than four days might be pushing it.

Who Goes to Bacalar?

Well, unfortunately, after that damn article probably a lot of people who shouldn't.  But when we went it was quite an interesting mix.  There were, of course, young Mexicans.  One couple got engaged at a table set up on the dock with the whole staff pitching in.  It was unspeakably cute.  Then there were a lot of Europeans.  How do they find out about these places so fast?  Germans, an Italian couple and a French family.  The French daughter is studying in Guadalajara and her parents came to visit.  They live on Reunion Island off of Madagascar.  The Dad asked if I knew of it and I said "Sure, that's where over half of all the fatal shark attacks in the world take place."  Phobia #14.  He looked at me strangely but nodded his head in agreement.

In Conclusion

This is rather short by our standards but all we did is relax and who wants to hear about that?  If you love beautiful clear water and a relatively uncommercial get away go to Bacalar -- soon.  But only between December and early March or you will die of humidity. Do not bring hundred of pounds of snorkel gear (like we did) because there are few fish in the lagoon or cenotes.  The good news is the lack of fish keeps crocodiles out (mostly).  Bring your books.

Of course, upon arrival home, our friend Barbara emailed us about an article in the Mexican Daily News featuring Bacalar.  It appear that shortly after we were there (or during-- it's hard to tell)  there was a shootout on the highway we took from the airport.  A plane (narco plane of course) landed on the highway (why?) and there upon ensued a gun fight killing multiple people.  Well, it seemed quite peaceful to us.

The reception desk is to the left under the overhang. We had an individual cabana. All the cabanas were to the right of the main house.

The rear of the main house showing the pool, the outdoor terrace where we ate breakfast and the bar to the right under the palapa.

The dock and deck overlooking the Laguna del Siete Colores, where we would relax with our coffee in the morning.

The sailboat we cruised on one late afternoon until the sunset.

This large bird in the center was always perched across from the deck where we sat with our coffee.

Further south from the place we were staying were Los Rapidos (although they weren't that rapid). These individuals enjoyed flowing downstream in the current.

Los Rapidos were formed by a narrowing of the passage of the water from one cenote flowing into another.

The only fish we ever saw was at Los Rapidos in a shallow area away from the main current.

One day I kayaked to one end of the lagoon and encountered these large buildings. 

We never found out exactly what was their original purpose, but they appeared to be largely abandoned now.

On the sailboat cruise we sailed over to Pirate's Canal, where we encountered these interesting murals and a structure which looked like the bow of a ship.

One of the structures we passed on our cruise looked like something out of the Arabian nights with its own minaret.

The sunset part of the cruise did not disappoint.

Before leaving on our return flight we spent some time in Chetunal.

This band stand with its unique round stained glass pictures under the gables caught our attention.

As did this character with his bike and dog balancing on the back.

So, that's it until we head to Dallas and our month + long sojourn in our rental in a 55+ community.  Quite different from Bacalar I suppose but probably relaxing. Probably fewer narco plane shoot outs. We will update you on Michael's appointment with the knife and follow on activities.  In the interim have fun and, for our Northern friends, stay warm.

Some photos for your perusal: