Bulls, Ballistics and Balloons

 So, So, So Not PC --The Midget Bull Riding Show

Yes, the title is accurate.  Now, we weren't sure if the bulls were midgets or there were actually little people involved but, in any case, this event warranted our investigation.  So off we went with pals George and Alex to the Chapala Bullring.  I know that many people in the United States are overwrought that their country has been seized by an outrageous display of political correctness which hinders discourse, freedom and perhaps bigotry.  Well, you SURE don't have to worry about that here!  Once we discovered that the bulls (while not large) were not small it became apparent that the term midget referred to the people. "I don't know," said Alex.  "Everyone here calls them midgets. Don't you think we should call them little people?"  Since we were four of only six gringos in the entire bullring I told her I didn't think anyone would know WHAT we were calling them in English. So, we settled down to enjoy the spectacle.  Later, while taking a look at our ticket stub we discovered that the group was officially called The Midget Power and their motto was "Orgullosamente Chihuahuenses". The strict translation would be proudly Chihuahau(an) but we think that Chichuahuenses could be slang for midgets/little people (like Chihuahuas).  Quien sabe. Extensive research revealed no clue.

The word spectacle hardly suffices.  In addition to an amazing crew of midget/little people the "ringmaster" (for lack of a better word) was a 6+foot transvestite who, with alacrity, leaped from bullring to bleachers about 100 times during the show to accost various men in the most lascivious ways.  People think that Mexico is a conservative/straight country in terms of sex but you couldn't tell it from this crowd.  The "ringmaster" would grab some unsuspecting macho guy in a cowboy hat, haul him to his feet and well, have his/her way with him while the man's highly confused children and bemused wife looked on.  The audience thought it was a riot.  We're pretty sure a number of small children were scarred emotionally for life.

We have often opined that the Mexicans have a really good childrearing philosophy.  They love them like crazy and then let them do all the things American parents let their kids do 50 years ago but now live in mortal fear of.  Well, this show sort of pushed the boundaries, I think.  As the photos will show, children as young as two were sitting with their legs dangling over the edge of the bullring as the bull was charging and the "ringmaster" was hurling him/herself into their midst.  Young boys were climbing in the multistory rigging where (we're quite sure) faulty electrical wiring was strewn about. Amazingly, as has been the case since we have first witnessed this casual approach to supervision, no one was killed or even injured -- well, except the ringmaster-- but we'll get to that.

We did feel that the advertising was a bit misleading.  In the course of the two hour show, only one bull was ridden.  But it was very diverting.  They had gotten the bull into the correct frame of mind (really P.O.d) but taunting it and getting it to chase them around the bullring.  Just as the bull would be about to get one of his antagonists he would vault into the bleachers.  Now, the little people/midgets had to have resin chairs next to the wall to jump on or they simply wouldn't make it. If the bull got the chair first it got hairy.  The "ringmaster" was pretty fast considering how he was dressed but he did get gored in the leg (and maybe the back).  Not for the faint of heart.  So, anyway, they finally get the bull roped and then they suit him up for the big ride with the hand strap wrapped around his mid-section.  Enter the bull rider.  Inexplicably, he is wearing a lacrosse helmet.  The "ringmaster" and his assistant hoist the bull rider (the littlest of the little people) onto the beast's back.  But wait!  He is backwards.  His head is facing the tail and his legs are draped around the neck. And then it is showtime.  The bull is released and takes off with the little guy gamely holding on until the bull wipes him off on the wall and then attempts to stomp him.  Luckily the "ringmaster" intervenes in the nick of time.  Actually, we were all relieved that there was only one bull ride.

I truly don't know what to say about the musical and dancing entertainment.  I think the pictures will have to do the work.  In conclusion, all I will say is that if a Midget Bull Riding Show comes to your town you really owe it to yourself to go see it.

On our way in we encountered these cows, which Deirdre exclaimed were the largest she had ever seen. 

The women midget power went into their dance routine.

Then the clown came out with a large bag of candy, which he proceeded to throw into the stands, much to the delight of the children.

Mamacita came out to break up the romance...

and then proceeded to really wack the offender, who would dare to impugn her daughter's reputation.

This one seems to be floating above the ground.

The six foot transvestite "ringmaster" appeared...

and proceeded to molest the men...

attack the midget...

molest more men..note looks on baby's and young girl's faces at left. Scarred....

jump into the ring...

and attack the midget again...

and again....

until finally collapsing from exhaustion, while the midget tried a unique revival method.

The women dancers appeared again ...

along with an Indian carrying a flaming torch...

which was used to set a box in fire, resulting in a very loud explosion.

It was finally time for the midget bull riding session (or so we thought).

But first there were some acrobatics...

and more dancing.

The children grabbed the best seats on the very edge of the ring.

While our transvestite ringmaster seemed to float in the air...

before performing a split...

which resulted in one of the midgets having to attempt to raise the ringmaster (or ring mistress) up.

This midget cowboy was sporting a man bun.

Finally the first bull makes its appearance...

and proceeds to gore its first victim.

The mighty midgets finally rope & subdue the bull.

The second bull was even more lively then the first...

causing much running away...

some minor trampling...

and another goring. Fortunately the bulls were not full grown & their horns were not very sharp.

It looked like the bull was finally subdued...

when it broke loose and sent the clown and the midget running & ducking for cover.

But the mighty midgets prevailed once more.

Notice the cocky stride and the lacrosse helmet as the midget prepares to mount the bull...

backwards of course...

before being ignominiously thrown to the dirt.

The next performance involved fireworks, lip syncing and playing pretend instruments.

The costumes made the performance.

Finally some brave volunteers were recruited from the audience...

while a prayer was said for their safety...

as a midget jumped over them all!

KA-BOOM! Yet Another Festival

This week (well actually within 3 days) we had two fiestas.  But we'll only cover the Fiesta of the Cross because we've never discussed this one before.  So, true to form, the cohetes de trueno (rockets) began to detonate around 5AM.  This was to rouse those involved (and everyone else in the village) so that the construction workers, who are the center of this celebration, could commence their special day with a hearty breakfast of menudo (tripe stew- yuck) and their alcoholic beverage of choice  Following this, they proceed to climb to the tippity-top of whatever building they are constructing to affix a large, brightly decorated cross. By tradition, no construction worker toils on this day.  Instead, property owners and contractors host festive mid-day meals for their workers who are probably just about recovering from breakfast libations.  In the words of The Guadalajara Reporter: "the parties may turn into unbridled benders that go on to the wee hours".  Oh, yes they do.

There are, allegedly, on this day religious processions and services but we have never witnessed them. Ajijic is a little like Sienna (I know-- you are saying WHAT?) in that people of a particular guild (or occupation) tend to live in the same neighborhood.  In Sienna the guilds/neighborhoods are called contrade.  So here the construction workers predominantly live in two "barrios" --Barrio de Guadalupe and Barrio de San Sebastian.  Unique to Ajijic (and these barrios) is la ventando la cruz -- which they say is somewhat akin to a North American Indian potlatch.  Since I have no idea what a potlatch is I am unable to offer an opinion.  However, in the afternoon, people throughout these two barrios create altars in celebration of the day.  All feature a cross in the center but from there things become individualistic.  Flowers, candles, fruits, baked goods, pantry staples, toilet paper (really), cleaning products, tequila (of course) homemade cordials and more.  Come evening, everyone strolls around looking at the altars and they can lay claim to any item for pickup at the end of the night.  The quid pro quo is that the next year they must provide as good an item(s) or better.

So, more strolling, more drinking, more eating and then it is time for the toritos (bulls).  These rather large bulls have been fashioned out of bamboo and papier mache and adorned with a very large number of firecrackers.  When the streets fill, they are set alight and they charge through the crowd detonating as they go.  Who needs Pamplona?  So that's it.  Yet another fiesta draws to a close.

We caught these two altars in the early stages of being set up.

These construction workers paused from their drinking to pose for the camera...

as they hung out next to this altar.

This altar featured one of the bulls festooned with firecrackers...

while this altar contained food & drink.

This bull covered in firecrackers arrived as I was taking photos.

An altar with flowers and a silver cross.

This was one of the best stocked altars.

This colorful passageway off of the street caught my eye as I was walking by.

A close up of the two bulls with their fire crackers.

This altar even featured corn flakes!

Up, Up and Away

The good thing about balloon festivals is that they are really fun.  The bad thing is that you have to get up before the sun to get to one on time.  Barbara and Allan decided to accompany us and staggered to our house before 6AM and off we went in pitch darkness avoiding any livestock and cartels roaming the unlit roads.  We arrived in one piece and then followed a very confusing path through pitted corn fields (still dark) ultimately ending up at a ticket booth followed directly by a security checkpoint at which they confiscated our croissants (damn!), did the metal inspector, peeked in our bags and asked if we had knives.  Knives?  Yes, they said that they feared people with knives would pierce the balloons. After the knife thing we grew a little leery about the fact that there were around 200 cops from the multiple types of cop groups (many with flak vests and large guns) patrolling the grounds.  Had we missed something?  Did hardened criminals in large numbers populate balloon festivals? Quien sabe.

You DO have to love Mexico though because at every event they let you just do whatever you want-- except knife the balloons.  So we were free to roam the grounds getting within a foot or two of people powering up their balloon via massive fire spouting devices.  Balloons would come in for a landing seemingly on top of a crowd counting on the fact that they would move -- which they mostly did. Sponge Bob Squarepants narrowly cleared a high power line but little worry was evinced.  There were about 45 balloons and you'll see from the pictures that they were very impressive.  I don't know what's going on but there is another balloon festival at the end of the month in Chapala -- apparently ballooning is the next big thing in Mexico.  Maybe looking for a new way to get those drugs over the big, beautiful wall....

These photos will give you an idea of how early we arrived (not to mention how early we had to get up).

This was a four seater that had a fan on the back, which was used with one of the zeppelins.

Just watching the "aerostaticos globos" (balloons) take shape was intriguing.

We first encountered these amazing robotic-type characters all lit up at the Carnaval parade several years ago.

The eye of this balloon seems to be peeking above and around the other balloons...

until it finally reveals itself.

These balloons all seem to be eyeing one another...

as they begin to take shape.

A unique view as this balloon ascends.

In Mexico it is possible to get close up shots of the process of filling the balloons...

slowly watching them rise...

until it is upright and read for lift off.

The dog ascends and the basket gives you a perspective on how big these balloons are when filled with hot air.

Bob Esponja Pantalones Cuadrados (SpongeBob SquarePants) was the largest balloon and seemingly took forever to fill prior to launch.

Most of the rest of the photos require no commentary. Enjoy the photos.

This local store made sure there advertising was seen by having both a zeppelin and a balloon.

The dog appeared to land on the two points of this tent in the distance.

Well, unless something monumental happens this will probably be our last blog before we head to the U.S. and Europe at the end of the month.  This trip will be about 6 weeks so if you don't hear from us until mid/late July that is why.  Until then, have fun, enjoy the good weather and we'll check back in upon our return.