It's Beginning to Feel A Lot Like Navidad

Well, not climatically.  Still 70s, clear and sunny.  Sorry Boston.  But you've got the snow and, to be honest, the one time we miss it is Christmas.  Not a huge amount of missing, but some.  Missing our Boston friends and family more than the snow.  We'll try to get one post off before the boys arrive and we head to Mexico city.  An eclectic selection of topics this time.

Let There Be Art

There are a LOT of artists in Ajijic.  Kids, Grownups, Geriatrics -- they're all carving or painting or throwing pots or weaving or something.  We appear to be the only two people in town with absolutely no artistic talents.  And there are art shows --lots.  First we went to a pottery show. Then, also  this weekend, they closed the street in front of the church and had a big art show which also featured dancers and classical guitarists and two dogs fighting over a frisbee. What's nice is that there seem to be about an even mixture of gringo and Mexican artists.  But what's interesting is that almost all the gringo artists do Mexican scenes while most of the Mexican (not all)  artists do more abstract art.  Not universal,  but interesting and telling about how much the gringos appreciate not only the landscape but the Mexican way of life.  At the same time, but as a separate event, on the Plaza a block away, was an exhibit, sale and auction of artisan's work from Michoachan.  So.... here are some photos of the art festival and artesian exhibit.

The street is closed for the International Art Fest

Artists set up al along the street to sell their art work.

Art takes many forms, including pottery.

Several large photos were also displayed on the plaza during the Art Fest.

The House Tour de Noel

O.K.  This is the big one.  The one where you get to see great houses AND drink wine and eat hors d'oeuvres.  What a combo.  House #1 was in Los Ranchos.  Those faithful readers with photographic memories will remember that we saw a house in Los Ranchos on one of our first tours.  This is the house of the parents of the people on the first house tour.  You approach on a dirt road where, at least the first time, a goatherd was picturesquely gathering his flock to keep them from being run over by the crazed, invading tour goers.  There are only five houses on this road and they are massive.  What I have noticed, that I consider odd, is that many of these houses are 6,000 -10,000 square feet but only have two or three bedrooms.  Man, if I had a house that big I'd have lots of friends fly in all the time.  I'd have ten bedrooms and scrap that backgammon room and the yoga room and the collage assembling room.  But...that's me.

Even the dogs are decorated for the season...

as well as the tree at the entrance to the house.

The table is set for the holiday feast with the Christmas tree in the background.

The infinity pool however was not decorated for the season.

These people had a "rocking" duck for the grandchildren.

The master bedroom...

and more of the master bedroom.

House # 2:  One thing I really like about the House Tour is that you don't just see these humungous houses.  They usually have one house per tour that is on a more "human" scale.  This house was set up on the hill with a great view of the Lake and was totally unassuming but well designed.  Now, you have to realize that the back yard was a second lot that the man bought-- meaning that it would be a VERY tight fit without that.  And it's a gated community-- however you feel about that.  But it had these very cool doors that are all window and completely retract into the walls opening up your living room onto the terrace seamlessly.  Nice.

The tall boveda ceilings allow for a taller tree.

This table is set for a romantic dinner for two.  Oops.  One.

The weather allows for an open flow form the inside living area to the outside livings area with magnificent views.

A compact, efficient and functional kitchen.

House #3:  Ah, my favorite again.  Something about that number 3.  This one was 200 years old and a former monastery.  It has it's own chapel.  Not something everybody needs-- but very attractive.  To describe it, because the photos may not reveal the layout, it is two buildings joined by the chapel.  The main portion is the communal living area and master bedroom (head honcho's boudoir in the monastery days I suspect).  The kitchen is small and rustic Mexican.  I mention this only because the owner, Leslie, is a major cook and I often buy her things at the Monday Market.  You know a really good cook when they can cook in a rustic Mexican kitchen.  The entire house (s) are set into the mountain so beneath the main living area area several "suites" which were former monk's cells that have been combined to create accommodations since Leslie runs the place as a B&B (you can google airbnb House on the Hill Ajijic Mx.). Above, joined to the Chapel, and ascending the steep hill is another building which houses more converted monk cells and a Rotunda area that is being turned into a really nice suite.  After it was a monastery the complex was owned by the president of the Gold Mine on the mountain (but that is another story).

The chapel with the Virgin of Guadalupe behind the altar.  And, strangely, pinatas.

One of the most novel Christmas trees on the tour.

Notice the old style Mexican tiles on the floor in the inside dining room...

which flow through to the outside dining room.

The stove & oven in the "Mexican" kitchen.

More of the "Mexican" kitchen with the tiles around the sink and on the counters.

Even the statue at the entrance to the chapel is decorated with Christmas colors.

House #4:  This is where they hid the goodies!  Yes, this was the party house.  The decorations were quite impressive.  Apparently, they brought someone down from Guadalajara to do them.  The house was big -- tall and open and the decorations looked to scale.  I throw a little garland here and there and ...well, fine.  These things were massive.  The house was in Tres Canadas begging the question if they only allow Canadians to live there, but I guess not.  Anyway the pictures will tell the tale.  The food was mucho and delicious.  So much so that we shelved dinner entirely.

You know you are at the party house when Santa greets you at the door.

An elaborately created Christmas scene.

This house featured a collection of colorful, decorative plates hung on the wall.

Looking down from the upstairs balcony on some of the holiday decorations.

The master bedroom...

complete with big screen TV above the fireplace.

Let The Posadas Begin!

Last year we missed The Posadas entirely because we missed the first night (nine nights -- like everything here).  The first one starts from the church but each successive night starts from where Joseph and Mary spent the last night.  Well, if you don't know where they ended up the first night -- you get the picture.  Last year we wandered the Village fruitlessly looking for a small donkey and a throng of kids and missed them entirely.  We were not to be thwarted this year.  The paper said it would start at 4:30.  We are getting better at this time thing so immediately added an hour  and showed up promptly at 5:30 and surprise! so did the Posada.  Excruciatingly cute children, VERY patient donkey and happy, smiling (mostly) parents.  In the entire hour we were with them not one child cried, nobody ran around like a maniac and no parental voices were raised.  I don't know how they do it.  So, they start off from the church and sing a song about the search for shelter (well, I think-- you know my Spanish -- it could have been about gourds-- I'm not sure).  They get to a house and there is more back and forth singing and the windows and doors open.  The hosting family then distributes  bolos (goodie bags) to the throngs of children and Joseph and Mary are allowed in to sleep in the "stable".  I noted that the Donkey was not invited in.  It is rumored that there is a lot of piñata smashing but we didn't witness that.  Don't know if we'll catch any of the other nights.  It is the one "parade" we have witnessed that didn't feature the explosion of cohotes.  So nice.

Musicians sing while the children gather for the posada.

Joseph leads Mary on the burro and the children & parents follow behind.

These three sisters patiently wait for the posada to begin. One is dressed in the colors of the Mexican flag.

The burro also patiently waits, catching a little shut eye until the posada begins.

Children follow Joseph & Mary carrying the original posada scene.

The posada proceeds to the house selected for the first night of the posada.

The posada arrives at the house and Mary dismounts, showing the very practical jeans she is wearing underneath.

Everyone sings outside the house ...

prayers are said...

while the children patiently wait...

and wait to go into the house to get their bag full of treats.

This little one is trying out the burro...perhaps an aspiring future Mary.

You have to make the Adjustment

Some of you may remember our quasi-disasterous Christmas Tree from last year.  A photo will refresh your memories.  Well, this year we are going a different route.  At the Last Hurrah croquet party our friend Graham approached me and said, "I have a request if you don't mind".  He led me around the corner of the house and pointed to this giant, somewhat phallic, growth that had sprouted from the middle of our Century Plant cactus. "Can I have it?" he asked.  "Good God, Graham, why would you want THAT?" " Well, we'll chop it off, dry it out and paint it for a Christmas tree.  Oh, look, there is another.  We'll make one for you too."  "Hmmmm. Sounds interesting.  Go for it."  It is being delivered tonight.  They call the plant the Century Plant because it only blooms (yes, that is a bloom) every once in a while -- like a long time. But probably not a century.  And then the plant dies. Ah, the circle of life.  So, a Mexican Christmas Tree will enter our lives.  We'll let you vote on which, if either, if preferable.

Last year's pathetic Christmas tree.

A view of this year's Mexican Christmas tree.

Another view of this year's Christmas tree.

One Last Christmas Note

I just took a break to go outside on the terrace and listen to the school next door practicing for their big Christmas performance.  The kids are all sitting on the field-- from tiny, tiny ones to high schoolers (it's a private school).  First up are 7 or 8 year olds singing Angels We Have Heard on High ( I guess it's really Gloria)  in English.  It is beautiful.  At 7 apparently you can still hit those notes.  Then there are 10 year olds singing some Mexican song and parading around with a Moon, Sun and a Donkey (it's always a donkey here).  But my favorite is the littlest kids (maybe four) singing The Happiest Christmas Tree in English (kind of) each cavorting around the field with a poster board Christmas Tree.  All this made me think back across the far too many decades to our elementary school Christmas Programs.  I am not (God knows) one of those "They're stealing our Christmas" far right types but looking at how happy these kids were and how from littlest to largest they were sharing in a common celebration it made me think that perhaps all our political correctness is a bit overdone.  But enough of that.

The Searles Family wishes all of you the brightest and best Christmas (or Holiday of your choice) and a very happy, healthy and fun 2014.  We will try to stay out of trouble in Mexico City and shall report back on our adventures.  Take care and all the best to all of you.

Christmas decorations in Chapala.

Even City Hall in Chapala is decked out for the season.